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HORSESHOE      FALL     AND     THREE       SISTER      ISLAND 


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SIGNORINA  SPELTERINA   IN  HER  HIGH  ROPE  PERFORMANCE.  WINTER     WONDERS     IN    THE      PARK 


WHIRLPOOL    RAPIDS  -  RAILWAY    SUSPENSION     BRIDGE  and  CANT  I  LEVER     BRIDGE 


SWIMMING    THE     WHIRLPOOL     RAPIDS. 


INDIAN     TAMILY. 


NEW    SUSPENSION    BRIDGE/vnoFALLS 


HORSE    SHOE     FALL      FROM    CANADA. 


PROSPECT     POINT 


BIRD'S      EYE     VIEW     OF     HORSESHOE     FALL 


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BRPDGE     ro     BURNING     SPRINGS     AND       OLARK        HILL         ISLANDS. 


BRIDGE  TO  SECOND    SISTER    ISLAND.         BRIDGE    TO    THIRD   SISTER.   ISLAND 


C EN ERAL  VIEW  FROM  NEW  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE.  RAPIDS    FROM  THIRD   SISTCFs     ISLAND. 


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TUGBY'S 

LLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 


TO 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 


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^TUGBY'S  GUIDE  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS 

« 

being 

a  complete  guide  to  all  the  points  of  interest  around 
and  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood. 


EMBELLISHED  WITH  VIEWS; 

copied  from  photographs 
made  especially  for  this  work. 


* 


V.    ■■         '■  ;   ;      .t'K'h.'f;.  i(^'\fM-t 


PUBLISHED 


l.y 


Thomas  Tugby,  Bridge  Sy,  Niagara  Falls,  N,  Y 

A  resident  of  Niug^nra  Falls  for  thirty  years,  and  proprietor  «f 
Tugby's  Mammolh  Bazaar. 


»,  . 


To  the  visitor! 


In  arranging  this  irorJc,  great  care  has  been  taken  to  make  it 
in  every  respect,  correct,  and  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  visitor, 
and  to  render  it  both  concise  and  comprehensive,  combining  all  the 
useful  features  of  my  other  publication  on  Niagara,  vith  numerous^ 
improrements,  calculated  to  adapt  it  to  the  pres'jnt  demands.  With 
these  many  features  of  excellence,  it  is  confidently  hoped  that  this 
work  ivill  be  appreciated,  as  a  valuable  assistant  to  the  visitor,  and 
a  ready  guide  and  advisor,  under  every  difficulty  which  may  beset 
the  tourist  at  Niagara  Falls. 


The  author. 


■.«sy< 


i.,ditjmsa^miM 


Entered   according  to  act  of  congress,  in  the   Year  1885,  by 

THOMAS    T  U  G  B  Y 

in  the  office   of  the  Librarian   of  Congress   at    Washington,     D.  C, 


■  V 


INDEX. 

Pftge 

Introduction 9 

Oval  Island  Bridge       10 

Rapids  above  the  Falls 11 

Bath  Island 12 

Goat  Island 12 

Luna  Island 13 

Biddle  stairs 13 

Cave  of  the  Winds       li 

Sam  Patch 14 

Terrapin  Tower        15 

Three  sister  Islands 15 

Head  of  Goat  Island 15 

Prospect  Park 16 

Inclined  Railway 16 

Whirlpool  Rapitls 17 

Whirlpool 18 

Railway  suspension  Bridge 18 

Cantilever  Bridge 20 

American  Falls 20 

Table  Rock 21 

Horse  shoe  Fall  ...          .                                 ....  21 

New  suspension  Bridge 2*2 

Lundy's  Lane  Battle-ground 23 

The  Devil's  Hole ^4 

Top  of  Mountain 24 

Brock's  Monument 2'i 

Indian  Y  '!"ge 2") 

Whirlpool  Uapids,  Canada  side 26 

Whirlpool    Canada  side 26 


st(5ffi<«*aiv,.     -  jai^su 


^^'^'^'<:ss^ 


Museum       20 

Cyclorama 26 

«Maicl  of  the  Mist* 27 

Avery  on  the  log ^7 

Francis  Abbot,  the  Hermit  of  the  Falls 28 

Blondin 29 

Niagara  by  Moonlight :^9 

Niagara  in  Winter 30 

The  roar  of  the  Falls       31 

The  river  above  the  Falls 31 

The  river  below  the  Falls 31 

Geology  of  Niagara       32 

The  first  white  visitor 38 

A  daring  feat 38 

Capt.  AVebb's  fatal  swim       38 

The  Hotels 41 

Carriages  and  Hackmen 43  . 

Distances 44 

Admission  fees  and  Tolls 44 

Accidents,  suicides,  and  narrow  escapes 45 

Legend  of  the  white  (lanoe       51 

New  «Maid  of  the  mist» 52 

Father  Hennepin's  Description 52 

The  village  of  Niagara  Falls 54 

Descriptive  pieces 55 


A 


I  ^  - 
\ 


I         Tugby's  g^uide  to  Niag^ara  Falls.     ,: 

Introduction. 

'',■        Nature  has  many  water-falls  and  cataracts,  but  only  one  Niagara. 

£   •     Niagara  Falls  may  be   justly   classed  among    the   wonders  of 

I  the  world.  They  are  the  pride  of  America.  Their  grandeur 
magnitude,  and  magnificence,  are  well  known  to  the  civilized 
world.  Ever  since  the  discovery  of  this  wonderful  cataract,  thousands 
have  flocked  hither  from  all  countries,  to  gaze  with  feelings  of 
the  deepest  solen.nity  on   the  tumultuous  fall   of  waters,   and  to 

!  adore  the  power  and  majesty  of  the  Almighty  as  these  are  exhibited 
and  repUzed  amid  the  sublime  scenery  of  this  stupendous  water- 
fall. The  power  of  the  Almighty  is  here  more  grandly  exhibited 
than  in  any  other  scene  on  earth.  The  Falls  cannot  be  described, 
there  is  too  much  sublimity,  majesty  and  over  whelming  grandeur 
for  mortal  to  comprehend  or  explain.  The  great  features  of  Niagara 
are  ever  the  same,  but  their  individual  expression  is  continually 
changing.  With  every  season,  with  every  sunbeam,  with  every  shade, 
they  assume  a  different  appearance,  inspire  fresh  interest,  and 
compel  new  admiration.  No  place  on  the  civilized  earth  offers  such 
attractions  and  inducements  to  visitors.  They  can  be  never  fully 
known,  except  to  those  who  sec  them,  from  the  utter  impossibility 
of  describing  such  a  scene.  When  nature  can  be  expressed  by 
color,  then  there  will  be  some  hope  of  imparting  a  faint  idea  of 
it  —  but  until  that  can  be  done,  Niagara  must  remain  undescribed. 
At  first  sight,  visitors  are  sometimes  disappointed.  Either  their 
expectations  have  been  raised  too  high,  or  the  scene  surpasses 
what  they  had  anticipated.  The  second  view  is  frequently  more 
impressive  than  the  first. 


—      10   — 

The  longer  the  visitor  tarries  the  more  he  enjoys  and 
tppreci&tes ;  we  think  the  instance  is  not  on  record  where  the 
visitor,  having  any  mind  to  appreciate  overwhelming  grandeur,  has 
been  disappointed  after  a  few  days  at  Niagara.  The  cataract  is 
formed  by  the  precipitous  descent  of  the  Niagara-River,  down  a  ledge 
of  rocks,  more  than  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  of  perpendicular 
height,  into  an  abyss,  or  basin  below  of  unknown  depth. 

The  Niagara-River  is  the  outlet  by  which  the  vast  surplus  of 
the  waters  of  Lake-Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Erie  is  passed 
into  Lake-Ontario,  thence  by  the  river  and  Gulf  St.  Lawrence  into 
the  ocean. 

This  river  forms  the  boundary-line  between  the  American  and 
Canadian  domains,  and  divides  the  Horse-shoe  Fall  between  the 
two  countries. 

The  Cataract  is  situated  in  latitude  43®  6"  north,  and  longitude, 
2o  6"  west,  from  Washington,  twenty-two  miles  from  Lake  Erie  and 
fourteen  from  Lake  Ontario.  In  the  following  pages  we  shall 
attempt  to  guide  the  traveller  to  all  the  points  of  interest  where 
the  best  views  may  be  obtained,  and  thereafter  point  out  to  him 
the  spots  of  peculiar  interest  in  their  neighbourhood.  Let  us 
suppose,  now,  reader,  you  have  just  reached  the  village  of  Niagara- 
Falls  on  the  American-side ;  that  you  have  just  alighted  from  the 
train,  and  that  you  do  not  want  to  ride  or  go  to  a  hotel.  It 
is  superfluous  to  give  you  minute  directions  how  to  proceed; 
follow  the  carriages  and  stages  and  you  will  be  right.  Visitors 
generally  take  an  omnibus  from  the  depot,  to  a  hotel  previously 
selected.  All  the  principal  hotels  send  an  omnibus  to  every  train. 
The  distances  to  the  different  points  are  given,  so  that  the  tourist 
may  either  walk  or  ride  as  he  may  elect.  It  would,  perhaps  be  as  well 
to  state  that  the  distances  are  too  great  to  walk  to  all  points  of  interest. 

The  street  between  the  Cataract  and  International  Hotels  leads 
to  the  river  where  it  is  spanned  by  , 

Goat  Island  Bridge* 

The  bridge  is  about  40  rods  above  the  Falls.  This  elegant 
and   substantial   structure,    was   erected  by   Mess'"    Porter,    the 


-w-  -i'A 


proprietors  of  Goat-Island.  It  is  on  the  plan  of  the  Whipple  iron 
arched  bridge,  is  360  feet  long,  having  four  arches  of  ninety 
feet  span  each.  Their  width  is  twenty  seven  feet.  The  first 
bridge  that  was  thrown  across  these  turbulent  waters  was  constructed 
at  the  head..of  jGoat-Island  in  1817,  it  was  carried  away  by  the  ice 
in  the  following  spring,  and  was  succeeded  by  another  built  in 
1818  on  the  site  of  the  present  bridge.  This  was  repaired  in  1839, 
again,  in  1849.  The  present  bridge  was  erected  in  1856.  The 
inquiry  is  often  made,  how  was  it  ever  constructed  over  such  a 
tremendous  rapid?  The  difficulties  attending  its  construction 
were  overcome  in  the  following  manner:  A  massive  abutment  of 
timber  was  hailt  at  the  water's  edge,  from  which  were  projected 
enormously  long  and  heavy  beams  of  timber.  These  beams  were 
secured  on  the  land  side  by  heavy  loads  of  stone ;  their  outer  ends 
were  rendered  steady  by  means  of  stilts  or  legs  let  down  from 
them  and  thrust  into  the  bottom  of  the  river.  A  platform  was 
thrown  over  the  projection,  along  which  a  strong  framework  of 
timber,  filled  solidly  with  store,  was  carried  and  sunk  into  the 
river.  To  this  pier  the  first  permanent  portion  of  the  bridge  was 
fixed;  then- commencing  from  the  extremity,  beams  were  run  out 
and  a  second  pier  similarly  formed ;  and  so  on  till  the  bridge  was 
completed. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  points  of  view  from  which  to 
observe  the 

Rapids  above  the  Falls. 

Here  the  first,  perceptions  of  power  and  grandeur  begin  to 
awaken  in  our  minds.  The  noble  river  is  seen  hurrying  on  towards 
its  final  leap;  as  we  stand  upon  the  bridge,  looking  down  upon 
the  -rushing  flci^d  of  water,  that  seems  as  if  it  would  sweep  away 
our  frail  standing-ground  and  hurl  us  o.er  the  dread  precipice, 
whose  rounded  edge  is  but  a  few  yards  further  down,  we  begin, 
though  feebly  as  yet,  to  realize  the  immensity  of  this  far-famed 
cataract.  The  fall  of  the  river  from  the  head  of  the  rapids  {%  of 
a  mile  above)  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice  is  nearly  60  feet,  and 
increases   in  velocity,   from  seven  to   thirty  miles   an  hour.    The 


J^  ~M.'it&^iti',ril'iMiX4fj\iM^£^Xvti  !L\lij£!:iKiKl¥S^jli. 


;^;   '■  —    12    —       ■ 

tumultuous  madness  of  the  waters,  hurling  and  foaming  in  way- 
ward billows  and  breakers  down  the  descent,  as  if  fretting  with 
impatience,  is  a  fine  contrast  to  the  uniform  magnificent  "^weep 
with  which  at  length  they  rush  into  the  thi  dering  flood  below. 
Midway  between  the  bridge  and  precipice  will  be  seen  Avery's 
Rock  (see  description  of  Avery  on  log). 
We  will  now  pass  over  the  bridge  to 

Bath-Island. 

A   small  Island  of  about   one  acre  in  extent,   upon  which  is 
the  Niagara  Falls  paper  mills,  said  to  be  one  of  the  largest  paper 
manufacturing  establishments  in  the  United-States.     A  little  higher 
up  are  two  small  Islands,    called  "Ship"  and  "Brig"   Island,   from    ; 
their  supposed  resemblance   to  that  particular  kind  of  craft.    The    ; 
former   is  frequently   called     Lover's-Retreat.    Looking   down  the    ^ 
river,  we  see  several  small  Islets,  most  of  which  are  more  or  less 
connected  with  thrilling  incidents ;  for  graphic  details  of  which  we 
refer   the   traveller   to  the   carriage-drivers  and  guides,    who  are    i 
learned  in  local  tradition. 

We  will  now  pass  over  another  bridge  similar  to  the  one  just 
passed  (but  smaller),  to 

GoaMsland. 

Goat-Island  contains  62  acres;  is  a  little  over  a  mile  in 
^circumference,  and  heavily  timbered.  In  1770,  a  man  by  the  name 
of  Stedman  placed  some  goats  here  to  pasture,  hence  the  name. 
It  was  originally  called  Iris  Island,  from  the  number  of  beautiful 
rainbows  that  are  so  frequently  seen  near  it.  Goat  Island  was 
visited  long  betore  the  Bridges  were  constructed,  but  the  visitors  • 
were  not  numerous,  the  risk  being  very  great.  The  dates  1771, 
1772,  1779,  under  the  names  of  several  strangers,  were  found  cut  ^^ 
in  beechtrees  near  the  Horse-shoe  Fall.  *r -' 

In  1814,  General  and  Judge  Porter  bought  of  Samuel  Sherwood 
a  paper  called  a  Floaty  given  by  the  state  as  pay  for  miUtary 
services  rendered,  authorizing  the  bearer  to  locate  200  acres  of 
land    on  any  of  the  unsold  or  unappropriated  land  belonging  to 


■.■,,—     13    —    '^, 

the  State.  Part  of  this  they  located  on  Goat  and  other  adjacent 
islands,  immediately  above  and  adjoining  the  Great  Falls,  their 
patent  bearing  date  1816  and  signed  by  Daniel  D.  Tompkins  as 
Governor,  and  Martin  Van  Buren  as  Attorney-Gener.il  of  New  York. 
An  early  record  says  the  Island  once  contained  250  acres  of  land. 
In  approaching  the  Island  we  ascend  the  hill  and  take  the 
road  to  the  right  (five  minutes  walk)which  leads  to 

Luna-Island. 

This  little  Island,  adjacent  to  Goat  Island  is  connected  with 
it  by  a  foot  bridge  over  the  stream  that  forms  the  Centre  Falli 
this  stream,  though  a  mere  ribbon  of  white  foam  when  seen  from 
a  short  distance,  in  contrast  with  the  other  Falls,  is  by  no  means 
unworthy  of  notice.  It  is  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  is  a  very 
graceful  sheet  of  water.  From  Luna  Island  (which  is  so  called 
because  it  is  the  best  point  from  which  to  view  the  beautiful 
lunar-bow)  a  view  of  the  jiver  below  the  falls,  the  Inclined  Railway, 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  the  two  suspension  Bridges  in  the  distance, 
the  American  and  Centre  Falls,  may  be  seen  to  advantage,  the 
visitor  being  located  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice  of  the  American 
Fall.    This  view  is  thought  by  many  to  be  unsurpassed. 

It  has  often  been  remarked  by  strangers  that  this  Island  trem- 
bles, which  is  undoubtedly  true ;  but  the  impression  is  heightened 
by  imagination. 

It  was  while  climbing  over  the  rocks  directly  under  this 
Island,  that  Dr.  Hungerford,  of  Troy,  N.  Y.,  was  killed  in  the 
Spring  of  1839,  by  the  crumbling  of  a  portion  of  the  rock  from 
above.  This  is  the  only  accident  that  ever  occurred  at  Niagara 
by  the  falling  of  rock. 

Returning  to  Goat  Island,  we  proceed  a  few  yards  to 

Biddle  Stairs. 

They  were  erected  in  1829,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling 
visitors  to  descend  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  and  were  named 
after  Mr.    Biddle   of  Philadelphia,   who   contributed   towards  their 


-    14    - 

erection.  The  stairs  are  80  feet  high.  The  total  distance  from 
top  of  bank  to  bottom  is  185  feet.  Number  of  steps  \'S±  Here  are 
dressing  rooms  for  those  who  wish  to  go  into  the  far-famed 

Cave  of  the  Winds. 

The  appellation  by  which  it  is  known  is  entirely  appropriate. 

Width  of  cave  100  feet,  diameter    60  feet,   height  100  feet.     It  is 

necessary  to  put  on  water-proof  dresses  and  obtain  a  guide.    (See 

admission   fees).     The   cave   is   much  visited  by  ladies  as  well  as 

gentlemen.  It  was  formed  by  the   action  of  the  water  on  the  soft 

substratum  of  the  precipice,  which  has  been  washed  away  and  the 

Jime-stone  rock  left  arching  overhead  30  feet  beyond  the  base.  In 

front  the  transparent  Fall  forms  a  beautiful  curtain.  In  consequence 

of  the  tremendous  pressure   on  the  atmosphere,  the  cave  is  filled 

with  perpetual  storms,  and  the  war  of  conflicting  elements  is  quite 

chaotic.     A  beautiful  rainbow,  quite  circular  in  form  quivers  amid 

the  driving  spray    when    the   sun'^  shines.     Along  the  floor  of  thig 

remarkable   cavern   the    spray   is  hurled   with    great  violence,    so 

that  is  strikes   the  v/alls   and   curls  upwards   along   the  roof  thus 

causing   the  turmoil   which   has   pf.ocured   for  this   place  the  title 

which  it  bears. 

Here  you  may  walk  out  on  bridges  and  platforms,  directly  in 
front  of  the  Falls  about  40  feet  distant.  With  the  Falls  pouring 
down  at  your  feet,  you  are  in  the  midst  of  heavy  spray,  and  are 
almost  deafened  with  the  roar  and  general  tumult  around  you: 
Truly  this  is  a  scene  never  to  be  forgotten.  No  tourist  should  misi 
seeing  this  remarkable  phenomenon. 

Near  the  Biddle  stairs  the  celebrated 

Sam  Patch 

made  two  successful  leaps,  in  1829.  A  ladder  was  placed  at  the 
foot  of  the  rock,  and  fastened  with  ropes  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  top  projected  over  the  water.  A  platform  was  then  laid  on 
the  top  of  the  ladder  from  which  he  jumped  into  the  river,  a 
distance  of  97  feet.    Not   content  with  the  achievement,  he  after- 


—    15    — 

wards  made  a  higher  leap  of  Genesee  Falls,  Rochester,  where  he 
was  killed.  Alter  ascending  the  stairs  we  proceed  a  little  further, 
walk  down  a  few  steps,  and  cross  a  little  bridge  to  what  was  once 

Terrapin  Tower. 

This  tower  occupied  a  singular  and  awful  position.  A  few 
scattered  rocks  lie  on  the  very  Brink  of  the  Fall,  seeming  as  if 
unable  to  maintain  their  position  against  the  tremendous  rush  of 
water ;  upon  these  rocks  the  tower  was  built ;  it  was  erected  in 
1833  by  Judge  Porter.  A  few  years  ago  it  was  removed  being 
considered  unsafe. 

Here  we  obtain  the  most  magnificent  view  i  at  can  be  con- 
ceived :  the  rapids  above  rolling  tumultuously  towards  you  —  the 
green  water  of  the  mighty  Fall  at  your  feet  —  below  you  the 
hissing  caldron  of  spray,  and  the  river  with  its  steep  bank  beyond ; 
in  fact,  the  whole  range  of  the  Falls  themselves,  and  t)ie  world 
of  raging  waters  around  them,  are  seen  from  this  commanding 
point  of  view. 

Passing  on  along  the  edge  of  the  Rapids  (5  minutes  walk) 
we  come  to  the 

Three  Sisler  Islands. 

These  Islands  are  now  connected  to  Goat  Island  f!J  three 
beautiful  foot  bridges,  from  which  the  best  view  of  the  rapids  is 
to  be  obtained,  (see  narrow  escapes). 

Continuing  our  way  a  short  distance  along  the  rapids  w€ 
come  to  the 

Head  of  Goat  Island. 

Here  we  view  the  broad  and  placid  river  above,  spread  out 
in  a  beautiful  wide  sheet  of  water.  In  the  distance  we  see  Navy 
Island,  celebrated  in  the  history  of  border  warfare,  the  site  of  old 
Fort  Schlosser,  on  the  American  side,  fLiid  the  town  of  Chippewa 
on  the  Canada  shore. 

You  notice  the  current  is  rapid  but  not  broken  here,  and 
sets    directly  from    the   shore  to   this  spot.    Here  is   where  it  is 


•,      ..     15     -       ' 

supposed  the  fust  wliite  man  ever  stood  upon  Goat  Island.  Israel 
Putnam,  in  1755,  while  on  a  campaign  against  Fort  Niagara,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  visited  this  place  and  made  a  trip  to  the 
head  of  this  island  and  returned.  The  Indians  seem  to  have 
crossed  occasionally,  as  traces  of  their  graves  have  been  found  here. 

Leaving  here  we  return  to  the  bridge,  having  made  the  entire 
circuit  of  the  Island.  We  have  now  made  a  journey  of  a  little 
over  2  miles. 

We  will  now  recross  the  bridges  and  hasten  down  the  banks 
of  the  river  (about  150  yards  to 

Prospect  Park. 

ft 

The  Park  contains  about  10  acres,  and  it  embraces  fine  views 
of  the  American,  Centre  and  Horse  shoe  Fall,  This  is  indeed  a  sight 
worth  corning  many  miles  to  see.  Here,  at  one  wide  sweep,  we 
behold  Niagara  stretching  from  the  American  to  the  Canada  side 
in  magnificent  prospective.  Between,  as  if  in  the  grasp  of  the 
cataracts,  Goat  Island  seems  to  hang  precariously  above  the  abyss. 
The  scene  is  certainly   one    of  the    grandest  of  terrestrial  nature. 

Tnrning  from  the  Falls,  we  come  to  the 

Inclined  Rail-way 

down  which  visitors  are  carried  in  cars,  worked  by  water  power, 
to  the  edge  of  the  river  below  the  Falls,  where  a  sublime  view 
of  the  American  Fall  can  be  had  from  its  base.  By  the  side  of 
this  inclined  railway  is  a  stairway,  by  which  those  who  prefer  it, 
can  walk  down  instead  of  riding  in  the  cars  (Number  of  steps  290.) 

Those  ho  prefer  it,  can  now  take  the  ferry  boat  to  the 
Canada  shore,  a  voyage  of  some  ten  minutes  duration  which  is 
perfectly  safe,  not  one  accident  having   happened   in  fifty  years; 


--■  f    1  n[i»iiii  iipi 


--   n  - 

«ome  consider  the  view  from  the  ferry   boat    the  grandest  of  all. 
The  depth  of  the  river  h  about  200  feet. 

Now  reader,  we  have  viewed  the  Falls  from  all  the  principal 
points  on  the  American  side,  and  those  who  do  not  take  the  boat 
to  Canada  will  return  with  us  to  the  park  above. 

If  the  preceding  tour  has  been  done  on  foot,  those  who  have 
followed  us  thus  far  will  need  a  little  rest,  after  which,  we  suggest 
a  carr'  L^e  be  now  engaged,  then  we  will  proceed  to  the  other 
points  of  interest  oji  the  American  side,  and  after  visit  the  Queen's 
domains. 

Our  next  point  of  interest  will  be  the 

Whirlpool  Rapids. 

This  wonderful  spot  is  about  two  miles  from  the  Falls,  down 

1^    the  rushing  preen  river  which,  flowing  at  profound  depth  between 

high  banks,  looks  so  quiet  yet  sullen   after   leaving   the    howling 

abyss   at   the   foot   of  the   falls.    At  Whirlpool  Rapids !    what   a 

,     change !     The  whole  force   of  the   water  concentrates  itself  here, 

f'   it  seems  as  though  it  would  tear  asunder  the  steep,  wooded  hills 

that  enclose  it,  so  wild  and  startling  it  its  terrific  power;    as  far 

h    as  the  eye  can  reach  the  water  thunders  down  in  seething  heaving 

I    masses  of  foam,  throwing  up  streams  of  water  covered  with  spray, 

'     and  in  places  whirling  it.  up  into  angry  billows    twenty   or  thirty 

feet  above  the  liead  of  the  spectator  standing  on  the  shore.    It  is 

deafening  in  its  roar,  and  here,  even  more  than   at  the   brink  of 

the  Falls,  we  can  have  a  realization  of  the  terrific  force  of  Niagara. 

For  a  this  point  which   is  only  about  300  feet  wide,   the   united 

waters  of  Lake    Superior,    Michigan,   St.    Clair,    Huron   and    Erie, 

i,  thunder  along  at  the  rate  of  27  miles  an  hour.    According  to  Sir 

*    Charles  Lyell's   calculations,   lally    fifteen   hundred  million    cubic 

r  feet  of  water   rush  through  this  gorge   every  minute.    Estimated 

|c  depth  300  feet. 


—     18     —  ■ 

To  promote  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  visitors,  a  double 
elevator  was  erected  in  1869,  at  a  cost  of  twenly  thousand  dollars, 
and  is  a  perfect  specimen  of  mechanical  skill  and  ingenuity.  The 
machinery  is  worked  by  water-power,  transmitted  from  a  wheel 
placed  some  300  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank.  Having  returned 
to  our  carriage,  let  us  proceed  one  mile  further  down  the  river  to  the 

Whirlpool. 

The  bason  containing  the  Whirlpool  is  nearly  circular  and, 
together  with  the  waters,  form  a  very  picturesque  scene.  But  as 
to  the  pool  itself,  it  must  be  acknow  ledged  that  many  are  disap- 
pointed with  its  appearance.  It  is  not,  as  many  suppose,  in  the 
shape  of  a  vast  caldron  or  pool  with  the  out-let  at  the  bottom, 
with  the  centre  depressed,  but  on  the  contrary  the  water  is  several 
teet  higher  in  the  centre  than  at  the  sides.  The  pool  is  formed 
by  the  peut-up  action  of  the  water,  and  in  its  bewildered  course 
to  find  an  outlet,  is  forced  around  and  around  the  basin.  We 
cannot  illustrate  it  more  plainly  than  to  compare  the  river  to  a 
ferocious  animal  who  has  never  known  defeat,  that  has  suddenly, 
by  his  own  carelessness,  fallen  into  a  pit  fall.  His  first  impulse  is 
to  rush  around  the  outer  edge  of  the  pit,  in  frantic  but  futile  ef- 
forts to  escape.  This  passage,  when  found  by  the  river,  appears 
to  be  choked  and  wholly  inadequate  to  carry  off  the  vast  amount 
of  water,  yet  it  has  answered  every  purpose  for  thousands  of  years. 

The  grounds  around  the  Whirlpool,  belong  to  the  Deveaux 
College  (a  school  for  orphan  boys).  The  proceeds  from  the  ad- 
mission fees,  go  to  the  fund  for  its  support.  Taking  the  whole 
view  of  the  Whirlpool,  College,  and  drive,  the  average  visitor  will 
be  pleased  with  the  trip. 

We  have  now  visited  the  principal  points  on  the  American 
side;  we  will  take  our  carriage  again  and,  leaving  the  United 
States,  proceed  to  Canada.  As  most  tourists  wish  to  go  by  one 
bridge  and  return  by  the  other,  we  will  first  cross  the  old  or 

Rail-way  Suspension  Bridge.  ■  :^cr- 

This  bridge  is  a  noble  and  stupendous  structure;  it  combines 
in  an  eminent  degree,  strength   with    elegance  of  structure.     It  is 


Wft^j*U.'ife;fiii^;£j:''^LL*).'vi'.J.;  'r. 


1.    fi 


^  -     19    - 

owned  by  a  stock  company,  and  cost  $  500,000.  Architect  Mr.  John 
A.  Roebling  of  Trenton,  New-Jersey.  This  bridge  is  of  enormous 
strength,  and  forms  communication  between  the  United-States  and 
Canada,  over  which  the  cars  of  the  Grand  Trunic  and  Erie  Rail- 
road pass  withont  causing  much  vibration.  It  was  commenced  in 
1852;  the  first  cars  passed  over  it  on  the  8H»  of  March  1855.  The 
road  for  carriages  is  suspended  28  feet  below  the  rail-road  line. 
The  bridge  is  now  wholly  composed  of  iron  and  steel  except  the 
floor  of  the  carriageway,  $  100,000  having  just  been  expended  in 
taking  out  the  parts  made  of  wood  and  substituting  iron  and  steel. 
It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  the  trallic  was  not  impeded  while 
these  extensive  repairs  were  going  on.  The  following  statistics  in 
regard  to  this  great  structure  will  not  be  out  of  place  here: 

Length  of  span  from  '^"r.trt  to  centre  of  towers  825  feet 

Height  of  tov.ers  above  the  roi.k,  American  side  88    » 

»        »        »          »        »       ^      Canaila  s/de   .  78     ♦ 

»        »        »          »        »    floor  of  Railway      .  6C'    » 

»         »   track  above  the  water 258     » 

Number  of  Wire  cables 4    » 

Diameter  of  each  cable 10  Ji  inchei 

Number  of  N°  9  wires  in  each  cable     ....  3,659  tons 

Ultimate  aggregate  strength  of  cables    ....  12,400    » 

Weight  of  superstructure 800     » 

Maximum  weight  cables  and  stays  will  support  .  7,309     » 

Grand  Trunk  through  trains  east  and  west  run  across  this 
bridge,  affording  passengers  a  fine  view  of  the  whirlpool  Rapids 
where  the  famous  Capt  Webb  vras  drowned,  the  river  below,  and 
a  distant  view  of  all  the  Falls. 

The  Grand  Trunk  railway,  with  its  powerful  and  direct  con- 
nections, and  extensive  and  continuous  through  line,  is  a  favorite 
route.  Ever  alive  to  the  interests  of  its  patrons,  it  has  yearly 
improved  its  track,  rolling  stock  and  motive  power;  it  passes 
through  a  section  of  country  in  which  there  is  a  great  variety  of 
grand  and  beautiful  scenery,  and  in  all  that  makes  a  route  de- 
sirable to  the  traveling  public  this  line  cannot  be  surpassed. 


■  —     20     -- 

In  close  proximity  we  perceive  tlie  new 

Cantilever  Bridge. 

This  novel  structure  is  a  double  track  railway  Bridge,  built 
by  the  Michigan  Central  railway  and  connects  that  railway  with 
the  New- York  Central.  This  structure  is  on  a  new  principle  never 
before  illustrated  by  any  large  work  actually  finished.  Two  similar 
bridges,  however,  are  now  being  constructed — one  the  new  Tay 
Bridge  over  the  Firth  of  Forth,  Scotland,  and  the  second  for  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway  over  the  Frazer  River,  British  Columbia. 
Bridges  built  after  the  new  design  are  known  as  cantilever  bridges. 

The  waive  motion  perceptible  on  a  suspension  bridge  is  not 
felt  on  this  structure.  From  the  tower  foundations  up,  tlie  whole 
bridge  is  made  of  steel,  and  is  strong  enough  to  bear  two  of  the 
heaviest  freight  trains  extending  the  entire  length,  and  under  a 
side  pressure  of  wind  at  seventy  five  miles  per  hour,  and  even 
then  it  will  be  strained  to  only  one  fifth  of  its  ultimate  strengi.  . 

The  following  are  the  dimensions. 

Total  length  of  Bridge  proper  910  feet. 

Length  of  canti-levers,  375  and  395  feet. 

Length  of  fixed  span  125  feet. 

Length  of  clear  span  across  the  river,  500  feet. 

Height  of  Abutments,  50  feet. 

Heigh*  of  steel  towers,  130  feet. 

Height  of  clear  span  above  the  rivsv,  245  feet. 

Total  weight  resting  on  steel  columns,  1,600  tons. 

All  Michigan  Central  through  trains  East  and  West  run  across 
the  bridge,  affording  passengers  an  excellent  bird's  eye  view  of 
the  Falls,  the  river  below,  and  whirlpool  Rapids.  The  Michigan 
Central  is  a  popular  route  of  travel  between  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls, 
Detroit,  Toledo  and  Gh'cago. 

After  crossing  the  bridge  the  drive  on  the  Canada  side,  is 
very  fine,  as  it  gives  an  almost  unintenupted  view  of  the  river 
below  the  Falls  in  all  of  its  incessant  changes.  We  may  mention, 
in  passing  that  there  are  two  caves,  Catlings  cave  and  the  Giant's  cave, 
between  the  Bridge  and  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side,  and  Bender's 
cave  on  the  Canada  side.     They  are,  however,  not  worthy  of  notice. 

The  next  stopping  point  is,  in  front  of  the 

American  Falls. 


—     21     —  ' 

Comprising  the  American  and  Centre  Fall.  These  Falls  art 
one  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  have  a  perpendicular  height  of 
164  feet.  It  is  estimated  by  Sir  Charles  Lyell  that  not  less  than 
one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over 
.  these  (2)  Falls  every  minute.  They  are  characterized  by  an  irre- 
gularity that  gives  them  a  wild  and  singular  beauty.  The  outlinb 
is  far-projecting  and  deeply  indented.  The  water  flows  over  a 
broad,  billowy  stream,  and  is  thrown  out  by  craggy  points  in  a 
hundred  places,  so  that  it  passes  down  in  a  snow-white  drapery, 
and  possessing  so  much  beauty  and  variety  that  it  delights  while 
it  awes  oi.e  almost  forgets  its  immensity  while  contemplating  its 
singular  beauty.  Driving  on  a  short  distance  we  come  to  the  famous 

Table  Rock. 

In  alluding  to  this  view,  Charles  Dickens  says:  —  „It  was 
not  till  I  came  on  Table  Rock,  and  looked  on  the  fall  of  bright 
green  water,  that  it  came  upon  me  in  its  full  might  and  majesty. 
The  Niagara  was  for  ever  stamped  upon  my  heart,  an  image  of 
beauty,  to  remain  there,  changeless  and  indelible,  until  its  pulses 
cease  to  beat  for  ever." 

Table  Rock  is  no  longer  the  extensive  platform  that  it  once 
was  —  large  portions  of  it  having  fallen  from  time  to  time.  In 
1818,  a  mass  of  160  feet  long  and  40  feet  wide  broke  off  and  fell 
into  the  boiling  flood ;  and  in  1828,  three  immense  masses  fell, 
with  a  shock  like  an  earthquake.  Again,  in  1829,  another  frag- 
ment fell ;  and  in  1850,  a  portion  of  about  200  feet  in  length  and 
100  feet  thick.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  some  forty  or  fifty 
persons  had  been  standing  on  the  rock  a  few  minutes  before  it 
fell !  The  work  of  demolition  still  goes  on,  for  another  portion  of 
Table  Rock  fell  in  1857.  In  1867,  a  large  crack  or  seam  having 
formed   around  it  near   tbe  road,   it  was  deemed  unsafe,   and  the 

'  Canadian  Government  causfed  it  to  be  blasted  away ;  so  now  all 
that  remains  of  the  once  famous  Table  Rock  is  a  huge  mass  of 
rock  at  the  edge  of  the  liver  below  the  bank.    It  overhangs  the 

).  terrible  caldron  close  to  the  great  .      .? 

;^  Horse  shoe  Fall. 

The  Horse  shoe  Fall  extends  from  the  Canada  shore  to  Goat 
Island,  the  width  being  estimated  at  2376  feet;  the  perpendicular 
height  is  158  feet.  It  derived  its  name  from  its  shape ;  but  it  has 


:^"' '''   —     22     --  ,     ,,  "'■;  '■'■  '  .S- 

much  altered  since  it  was  named.  The  curve  of  the  Fall  has  now 
little  thj  resemblance  of  a  horse-shoe,  having  rather  the  shape  of 
an  inverted  letter  A. 

The  volume  of  water  that  goes  over  this  Fall  is  enormous. 
It  is  estimated  that  the  sheet  is  fully  iiO  feet  thick  in  the  centre 
or  where  it  looks  so  green ;  an  estimate  which  was  cor»'oborated 
in  a  singular  manner  in  1829.  A  ship  named  the  Detroit,  having 
been  condemned,  was  brought  and  sent  over  the  falls.  On  board 
were  put  a  live  bear,  a  deer,  a  buffalo,  and  several  smaller  ani- 
mals. The  vessel  v/as  almost  knocked  to  pieces  in  the  rapids,  but 
a  large  portion  of  her  hull  went  over  entire.  Siie  drew  eighteen 
feet  of  water,  but  did  not  strike  the  cliff  as  she  took  the 
awful  plunge. 

Fully  thirteen  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  cubic  feet  of  wrter 
pass  over  this  Fall  every  minute.  When  the  sun  shines,  it  adds 
much  to  the  magnificent  grandeur  of  this  scene ;  a  beautiful  rain- 
bow extending  at  times  from  the  American  to  the  Horse  shoe  Fall 
can  be  seen.  A  spiral  stair  case,  with  dressing  rooms  and  guides, 
enables  the  visitor  to  go  down  and  part  way  under  tho  Fall.  The 
view  here  is  awfully  grand.  As  we  look  upwards  at  the  frowning 
cliff  that  seems  tottering  to  its  fall,  and  pass  under  the  thick 
curtain  of  water  —  that  it  seems  as  if  we  could  touch  it  —  and 
hear  the  hissing  spray,  and  are  stunned  by  the  deafening  roar  that 
issues  from  the  misty  vortex  at  our  feet,  an  indescribable  feeling 
of  awe  creeps  ower  us,  and  we  are  again  impressed  with  the 
tremendous  magnificence  of  Niagara. 


./ 


vl 


New  Suspension  Bridge. 


>. 


"V: 


This  bridge  is  not  as  massive  in  its  construction  as  the  lower 
one,  but  more  beautiful  in  architecture.  It  is  designed  for  foot 
passengers  and  carriages.  A  favorite  American  writer  speaks  of 
this  bridge  as  follows;  "Over  the  river,  so  still  with  its  oily  eddies 


-A. 


—     23    — 

and  delicate  wreaths  of  foam,  iust  below  the  Falls,  they  have  of 
late  years,  woven  a  web  of  wire,  i/.^^h  in  air,  and  hung  a  bridge 
from  precipice  to  precipice.  Of  all  the  bridges  made  with  hands, 
it  seems  the  slightest,  most  etherial.  Ii  is  ideally  graceful,  and 
droops  from  its  slight  towers  like  a  garland.  It  is  worthy  to 
command,  as  it  does  the  wl-ole  gri.\deur  of  Niagara,  and  to  show 
the  traveller,  the  vast  spectacle,  from  the  beginning  of  the  American 
Fall  to  the  farthest  hmit  of  the  Horse  shoe.  This  is  the  longest 
Suspension  Bridge  in  ^he  world.  Its  great  length,  symelrical  form, 
graceful  curve  and  oL^^ious  l  rength,  cannot  fail  to  strike  every 
beholder  with  equal  surprise  and  pleasure. 

;  It   is  owned  by  a  stock  company,   and  cost   Doll.    250,000. 

f     The  following  particulars  in  regard   to    this  structure   may  be   of 
^;  '  interest. 

The  span  between  the  centre  of  towers  is  •        .        .  1,268  feet 

Height  above  surface  of  river 190    » 

^;>;  Height  of  towers  above  rock  on  Canada  side       .        .       105    » 
i^,        »        »        »  »         >      >    American  side   .        .       100    » 

Base  of  towers  28  feet  square,  and   top   4  feet  square.    The 

:'    bridge  is  supported  by  two  cables,   composed  of  seven  wire  ropes 

;  •    each,  which  contain  respectively  133  number  9  wires.    The  weight 

i ;    of  these  wire   ropes   per   lineal   foot  is  91bs,   and  the  diameter  of 

L'   the  cable  is  7  inches.    The  aggregate  breaking  strain  of  the  cable 

is  1,680  tons.    The  weight   of  bridge  and  appurtenances  is  about 

250  toas.    On  arriving  once  more  on  the  American  shore  we  have 

visited  the  principal  points  which  comprise  all  that  may  be  called 

J    "Seeing  the  Falls",  and  travelled  about  12  miles. 

J  With  the  tourist  who   has  the  time   and  inclination  we  will 

T  now,  point  out  several  localities  in  the  vicinity,  which  are  worthy 

;  '  of  attention,  particularly  on  account  of  their  historical  associations 

r^  We  mention  first 

:.  Lundy's  Lane  Battle-ground. 

This  historical  spot  upon  which  the  bloody  battle  was  fought, 

■i    :-.y--.'.     ,   •■  ■    .-■j,.^-:-'     ..-V ''■',  V?':  "'., 


24     —  ■'  <''     .'■'"^' 

on  the  25tJ»  day  of  July,  1814,  between  the  British  and  American 
forces,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  west  of  the  Falls  on  the  Canada 
side.  The  number  of  killed  and  wounded  on  both  sides  was  about 
equal,  and  both  parties,  as  a  matter  of  course,    claim  the  victory. 

The  Devirs  Hole. 

About  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Falls,  on  the  American 
side,  is  a  deep,  gloomy  chasm  in  the  bank  of  the  river,  about  120 
feet  deep.  Overhanging  this  dark  cavern  is  a  perpendicular  precipice, 
from  the  top  of  which  falls  a  small  stream  called  the  Bloody  Hun. 
This  stream  obtained  its  name  from  the  following  tragical  incident : 

—  During  the  French  war  in  1763,  a  detachment  of  British  soldiers 
who  were  conveying  provisions  in  waggons  from  Fort  Schlosser 
to  Fort  Niagara,  were  here  surprised  by  a  party  of  Indians,  then 
in  the  pay  of  the  French.  The  savages,  who  were  numerous, 
scattered  themselves  along;  the  hill  sides,  and  lay  concealed  among 
the  bushes  until  the  English  came  up,  and  had  passed  the  precipice ; 
then,  uttering  a  terrific  yell,  they  descended  hke  a  whirlwind,  and 
before  the  soldiers  had  time  to  form,  poured  into  their  confused 
ranks  a  withering  volley  of  bullets.  The  little  stream  ran  red  with 
blood,  and  the  whole  party  —  soldiers,  waggons,  horses  and  drivers 

—  were  hurled  over  the  cliff  into  the  yawning  gulf  below,  and 
dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks.  Only  two  escaped  to  tell  the  tale : 
the  one  a  soldier,  the  other  a  Mr.  Stedman,  who  dashed  his  horse 
through  the  ranks  of  bis  enemies,  and  escaped  amid  a  shower 
of  bullets. 

Three  miles  further  down  is 

'  Top  of  Mountain. 

There  are  no  associations  of  interest  connected  with  it;  it  is 
visited  simply  on  account  of  the  pkasant  drive  and  the  grand 
view  to  be  had  from  its  elevated  position.  Just  below  is  the 
village  of  Lewiston ;  on  the  opposite  shore  Queenstown ;  between 
them  flows  the  now  quiet  river,  calm  and  majestic  in  its  recovered 
quietude.    In  the  far  distance,  on  either  side,  stretches  the  richly 


a.  iff  —      25     — 

wooded  landscape,  dotted  with  villas  ard  cottages.  This  is  indeed 
a  fine  view,  and  well  repays  the  exertion  of  the  drive.  We  see 
opposite,  on  QueensLown  Heights  (Canada  side). 

Brock's  Monument. 

This  monument  was  erected  by  the  British  Government,  in 
memory  of  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  the  general  commanding  tiie  army  at 
the  battle  of  Queenstown  Heights,  on  the  13^^  day  of  October,  1812. 
His  remains,  and  those  of  his  aid-de-camp.  Col.  John  Mc.  Donald, 
who  died  of  wounds  received  in  the  same  battle,  are  buried  here. 
The  first  monument  was  completed  in  1826,  and  was  blown  up  in 
1840  by  a  man  named  Lett,  who  was  afterwards  imprisoned  for 
this  dastardly  act.  The  present  handsome  shaft  was  erected  in 
1853.  The  height  is  185  feet;  the  base  is  40  feet  square  by 
30  feet  high;  the  shaft  is  of  freestone,  fluted,  75  feet  high  and 
30  feet  in  circumference,  surmounted  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  on 
which  stands  a  statue  of  the  gallant  General.  The  view  from  this 
monument  is  most  impressive.  Niagara  is  spread  out  before  you, 
the  beautiful  valley  for  seven  miles  to  Lake  Ontario,  in  one  grand 
panoramic  view,  and  the  lake  beyond,  studded  with  white  saUs,  is 
one  which  is  excelled  nowhere  in  the  country. 

Should  the  visitor  be  in  Niagara  on  Sunday  he  will  find  a 
Tery  interesting  service  by  attending  church  at  the 

"  '  '    '  Indian  Village. 

They  have  two  churches,  or  meeting  houses,  here,  in  which 
the  services  are  conducted  in  the  Indian  dialect,  then  translated  for 
the  benefit  of  those  who  do  not  understand  it.  One  house  is  of 
the  Baptist  persuasion,  the  other  Presbyterian:  for,  of  course,  the 
ancient  superstitions  of  the  race  have  faded  away  before  the  strong 
light  of  Christianity,  and  the  Great  Spirit  is  worshipped  only  in 
the  name  by  which  the  white  man  calls  it.  From  this  village  comes 
all  the  beautiful  bead- work,  bows  and  arrows,  Canoes,  &c.,  seen 
in  the  bazaars  at  Niagara.  It  is  eight  miles  from  the  Fall. 


It  is  pioper  to  mention  that  at  the 

Whirlpool  Rapids,  Canada  Side. 

The  view  is  similar  to  the  one  we  have  seen  on  the  Ameiican 
siile,  being  just  opposite.  This  point  of  interest  is  generally  known 
as  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  Park,  and  comprises  the  natural  uplands 
of  the  river  bank,  which  at  this  point,  are  250  feet  high,  as  well 
Rs  a  road  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  which  follows  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  has  been  excavated  from  the  rock.  In  the  warm  days 
of  summer  this  is  a  most  deligtfully  cool  and  shady  jetreat,  the 
cliff  forming  a  natural  protection  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  while 
the  immediate  presence  of  the  swift-rolling  waters  ensures  a  peren- 
nial coolness.  Two  means  of  access  to  the  water's  edge  are  provided, 
the  first  being  a  series  of  steps  forming  a  long  flight  of  stairs,  and 
the  other  a  unique  inclined  railway  operating  two  cars  running 
by  the  specific  jjjravity  of  water  in  the  tanks  under  each  car  filled 
from  a  spring  at  the  top  of  the  cliff  and  emptied  on  the  arrival 
of  the  cars  at  the  foot  of  the  incline.  The  ascent  or  descent  is 
made  in  \14  minutes,  the  loaded  car  from  above  being  the  motive 
power  used  to  hoist  the  lighter  car  from  below. 

An  other  inclined  railway  enables  us  to  reach  the  water's  edge 

at  the  Whirlpool  Canada  Side. 

The  view  does  not  materially  differ  from  the  one  previously 
described  on  the  American  side,  and  is  much  visited. 

We  think  it  right  to  say  that  the  illustrations  with  which 
this  little  book  is  embellished  may  be  depended  on  as  being 
minutely  correct,  having  been  copied  from  photographs,  made  by 
Niagara's  distinguished  artists,  whose  beautiful  views  of  Niagara 
scenery  are  so  well  known  to  the  pubhc.  In  the  preceding  pages 
we  have  visited  the  various  points  around  the  Falls  and  pointed 
out  the  places  of  interest  in  their  neighbourhood.  We  will  now,  in 
a  few  words,  give  the  reader  a  brief  history  of  some  of  the  local 
surroundings  and  events.  \,    ) 

Museum 

is  situated  on  Canal  St.,  opposite  Prospect  Park.  —  The  building  was 
erected  expressly  for  the  purpose,  is  a  large  and  massive  stone  edifice. 
The  collection  is  immense  having  been  gathered  at  great  expense 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  —  The  collection  of  Egyptian  Mum- 
mies is  said  to  be  the  best  in  America.  —  It  is  well  worth  the 
ad-misstow  fee  Cyclorama  of  the  Battle  of  Gettysburg  is  also  on 
Canal  St.  and  is  much  visited  by  tourists. 


••.:...  T-  ^^  r^  ,  . 
"Maid  of  the  Mist". 

This  little  steamer  used  to  run  from  her  dock  near  the  Railway 
Suspension  Bridge  up  to  the  Falls,  passing  so  close  to  the  falling 
waters  as  to  seem  to  those  looking  down  upon  her,  to  almost  pass 
under  the  sheet.  Water-proof  garments  were  provided,  and  the 
trip  was  an  exciting  one.  The  steamer  was  built  expressly  for 
this  brief  voyage,  being  an  excellent  boat  of  170  tons  burden, 
with  an  engine  of  above  100  horse-power.  The  owners  having 
found  her  unprofilable,  she  was  sold  to  a  Montreal  firm,  with  the 
condition  that  she  should  be  safely  navigated  through  the  Rapids 
and  Whirlpool.  This  dangerous  experiment  was  undertaken  by 
Joel  R.  Robinson,  (the  hero  of  Niagara)  with  but  two  assistants 
—  Mc.  Intyre  and  Jones.  She  left  her  mooringa,  near  the  Bridge, 
June  15th,  1861,  and  swung  boldly  out  into  the  river,  to  try  one 
of  the  most  perilous  voyages  ever  made.  She  sho'c  forward  like  an 
arrow  of  light,  and  with  the  velocity  of  lightning  passed  on,  as 
many  supposed,  to  meet  her  doom..  Many  beheld  this  hazardous, 
daring  adventure,  expecting  every  instant  she  would  be  dashed  to 
pieces  and  disappear  for  evei\  Amazement  thrilled  every  heart, 
and  it  appeared  as  if  no  power  short  of  Omnipotence  could  save 
her.  "There!  there"!  was  the  suppressed  exclamation  that  escaped 
the  lips  of  all.  "She  is  lost !  She  is  lost"!  But,  guided  by  an  eye  that 
dimmed  not,  and  a  hand  that  never  trembled,  she  was  piloted  through 
those  maddened  waters  by  the  intrepid  Robinson  in  perfect  safety. 
The  boat  lost  her  funnel  ,  but  otherwise ,  received  no  injury. 
Robinson  had  performed  many  hazardous  exploits  in  saving  the 
lives  of  persons  who  had  fallen  into  the  river,  yet  this  last  act, 
in  taking  the  "Maid  of  the  Mist"  through  the  Rapids  and  Whirl- 
pool, is  the  climax  of  his  adventures.  It  was  a  wonderful  feat  of 
navigation,  and  created  intense  excitement  for  miles  around. 

Avery  on  the  Log. 

In  July,  1853,  two  men  took  a  boat,  and  set  out  for  a  pleasure 
sail  on  the  river  above  the  Falls.  Nothing  was  heard  of,  them 
until  next  morning,  when  one  of  them,  named  Joseph  A^ery,  was 


-  -     28    ~ 

seen  clinging  to  a  log  sticking  on  a  rock  in  the  midst  of  the 
Rapids  below  Goat  Island  Bridge,  between  Bath  Island  and  the 
main-land.  Thousands  of  people  assembled  to  render  the  poor 
man  assistance,  and  during  the  day  various  attempts  were  made 
to  rescue  him  from  his  perilous  position,  but  without  success.  At 
length  a  boat  was  lowered  down  the  Rapids  towards  the  log 
to  which  he  clung.  It  reached  the  spot,  but  the  rope  became 
.ntangled  under  the  log,  rendering  it  useless.  A  raft  was  then 
let  down,  and  he  succeeded  in  getting  on  it;  but  those  ropes  also 
became  entangled,  and  the  raft  could  not  be  brought  to  shore. 
Another  boat  was  let  down  to  him,  but  as  it  reached  the  raft,  it 
•truck  with  such  force  that  Avery,  who  was  standing  erect,  fell 
off  backward,  and  in  another  moment  he  was  swept  over  the  Falls. 
His  body  was  never  found. 

Francis  Abbot. 

The  Hermit  of  the  Falls. 

In  the  month  of  Tune  1829,  a  tall,  gentlemanly,  but  haggard- 
looking  young  man,  made  his  appearance  at  Niagara  Falls.  He 
brought  with  him  a  large  port-folio,  and  several  books  and  musical 
instruments.  For  a  few  weeks  he  paid  daily  and  nightly  visits  lo 
the  most  interesting  points  of  Niagara,  and  at  length  became  so 
fascinated  with  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  that  he  resolved  to  take 
up  his  abode  there  altogether !  No  one  knew  whence  the  stranger 
came.  Those  who  conversed  with  him  asserted  that  h<%  was 
talented,  and  engaging  in  his  manners  and  address;  but  he  was 
not  communicative,  and  shunned  the  company  of  man.  At  the 
end  of  a  few  weeks  he  applied  for  permission  to  build  for  himself 
a  cottage  on  one  of  the  Three  Sister  Islands;  but  circumstances 
preventing  this,  he  took  up  his  residence  in  an  old  cottage  on 
Goat  Island.  Here  the  young  hermit  spent  his  days  and  nights 
in  solitary  contemplation  of  the  great  cataract :  and  when  winter 
came,  the  dwellers  on  the  mainland  saw  the  twinkle  of  his  wood 
fire,  and  listened  wonderingly  to  the  sweet  music  that  floated  over 
the  troubled  waters  and  mingled  with  the  thunder  of  the  FalL 


—    59    — 

■    -      .  '    . 

This  wonderful  recluse  seemed  never  to  rest.  At  all  hours  oT 
day  and  night  he  might  be  seen  wandering  around  the  object  of 
v'js  adoration.  Not  content  with  garing  at  the  Rapids,  he  regularly 
bathed  in  the  turbulent  waters;  and  the  bathing  place  of  Francis 
Abbot  is  still  pointed  out  to  visitors.  One  day  in  June  1831,  he 
went  to  bathe  in  the  river  below  the  Falls.  Not  long  afterwards, 
his  clothes  were  found  still  lying  on  the  bank,  but  Francis  Abbot 
was  gone.  The  waters  which  he  had  so  recklessly  dared,  had 
claimed  him  as  their  own  at  last.  His  body  was  found  ten  days 
afterwards,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  whence  it  was  conveyed  to 
,   the  burying-ground,  near    the   thundering  Falls   he  loved  so  well. 

Blondin. 

It  is  frequently  asked  by  visitors,  where  che  Intrepid  Blondin 

.  crossed   the  river  on   his  rope.    In  1859   his   rope  was  stretched 

from  bark  to  bank,   about  a  mile  below  the  Falls ;   the   length  of 

-  the  rope  at  this  place  was  about  1,200  feet.    In  1860  he  removed 
,   his  rope   to   a  point   just  below   the  Railway  Suspension  Bridge  ; 

the  width  here  was  900  feet.    He   crossed  the   rope   many  times, 
carrying  a  man  on  his  back,   and  doing  many  other   daring  feats. 

-  His   last   performance  was   given   before    H.  R.  H.  the  Prince   of 
.    Wales  and  Suite,  and  in  the  presence  of  a  vast  multitude  of  spectators, 

who  had  been  attracted  to  witness  the  miraculous  performance  of 
the  wonderful  Blondin,  many  coming  over  two  hundred  miles  to 
enjoy  the  novel  treat  atforded  them.  On  this  occasion  Blcadin 
put  the  climax  on  all  his  other  achievements  by  crossing  the  rope 
on  stilts.  The  saying,  what  man  can  do,  so  can  another,  has  been 
fully  illustrated.  Since  that  tiir.e,  many  persons  have  succeeded 
.  in  crossing  the  river  on  a  rope  and  performing  similar  feats.  In 
1876,  a  lady  named  Signorina  Maria  Spelterina  stretched  her  rope 
across  the  river  at  this  point,  and  astonished  the  multitude,  by 
her  daring  and  grace,  even  rivaling  the  great  Blondin  in  his  most 
wonderful  feats. 

j§  Niagara  by  Moonlight. 

It  were  vain  to  attempt  a  description  of  this  magical   scene. 


—    30    —    ' 

Every  one  knows  the  peculiar  softness  and  the  sweet  influence  of 
moonlight  shed  over  a  lovely  scene.  Let  not  the  traveller  fail  to 
visit  Goat  Island  when  the  moon  shines  high  and  clear,  and  view 
Niagara  by  her  pale,  mysterious  light.  ,     .  ,, 

*  Niagara  in  Winter. 

In  all  it  phases  this  wondrous  cataract  is  sublime,  but  In 
winter,  when  its  darkgreen  waters  contrast  with  the  pure  white 
snow,  and  its  frosty  vapour  spouts  up  into  the  chill  atmosphere 
from  a  perfect  chaos  of  ice  and  foam,  there  is  a  perfection  of  savage 
grandeur  about  it  which  cannot  be  realized  in  the  green  months 
of  summer.  At  this  season.  Ice  is  the  ruling  genius  of  the  spot. 
The  spray  which  bursts  from  the  thundering  cataract  encrusts 
every  object  with  a  coat  of  purest  dazzling  white.  The  trees  bend 
gracefully  under  its  weight  as  if  in  silent  homage  to  the  Spirit  of 
the  Falls.  Every  twig  is  coveied,  every  bough  is  laden;  and  those 
parts  of  the  rocks  and  trees  on  which  the  delicate  frost-work  will 
not  lie,  stand  out  in  bold  contrast.  The  trees  on  Goat  Island  and 
in  Prospect  park  seem  partially  buried;  the  bushes  around  have 
almost  disappeared;  the  buildings  seem  to  sink  under  their  ponderous 
coverings  of  white;  every  rail  is  edged  with  it,  every  point  and 
pinacleis  capped  with  it;  and  the  cold,  dismal-looking  water  hurries 
its  green  flood  over  the  brink,  and  roars  hoarsely  as  it  rushes  into 
the  vortex  of  dazzling  white  below.  When  the  sun  shines,  all 
becomes  radiant  with  glittering  gems ;  and  the  mind  is  almost 
overwhelmed  with  the  combined  effects  of  excessive  brilliancy  and 
excessive  grandeur. 

During  the  winter  immense  masses  of  ice  descend  the  river, 
pass  over  the  Falls,  and  form  an  ice  bridge  below.  This  ice  bridge 
generally  extends  from  the  Horse-shoe  Fall,  to  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  above  the  Rail-way  Suspension  Bridge,  and  is  crossed  by 
hundreds  of  foot  passengers  during  the  winter.  When  the  river 
rises,  the  slender  hold  that  binds  it  to  each  shore  is  broken,  and 
the  bridge  disappears,  sometimes  in  one  night,  at  other  times  it 
lasts  until  May. 


^    31    - 

:>■■:■■■■(■  ■ 

The  roar  of  the  Falls. 

This  much  depends  upon  the  wind,  and  the  state  of  the 
atmosphere.  Sometimes  every  door  and  window,  the  least  ajar, 
for  a  mile  around,  will  tremble,  and  the  roar  may  be  heard  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  five  miles.  At  other  times  it  cannot  be  heard 
half  a  mile  away.  In  a  few  instances  the  roar  has  been  heard  at 
Toronto,  a  distance  of  forty-four  m'es. 

The  river  above  the  Falls. 

The  descent  of  tte  Niagara  River  —  which,  let  it  be  home 
in  mind,  flows  njrthward  —  is  only  about  fifteen  feet  in  the  first 
fifteen  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  and  the  country  around  is  almost  on 
a  level  with .  the  river's  banks.  At  this  part  the  Niagara  varies 
from  one  to  three  miles  in  Width,  has  a  tranquil  current,  and  is 
lake-like  in  appearance,  being  interspersed  with  low,  wooded  islands. 
At  the  head  of  the  rapids  it  assumes  a  totally  different  appearance, 
and  descends  about  sixty  feet  in  a  mile,  over  an  uneven  bed  of 
limestone,  and,  after  being  divided  into  two  sheets  by  Goat  Island, 
plunges  down  about  164  feet  perpendicular  at  the  Falls.  Above 
the  rapids  islands  are  numerous.  Indeed  the  river  is  studded  with 
them,  from  Lake  Erie  all  the  way  down  to  the  Falls.  There  are 
37  of  them,  if  we  may  be  permitted  to  count  those  that  are  little 
more  than  large  rocks.  Grand  Island  is  the  largest,  being  12  miles 
long  and  7  broad.  It  divides  the  stream  into  two  branches.  Navy 
Island  is  just  below  it.  Here  the  French  built  their  ships  of  war 
in  1759.  This  island  was  the  resort  of  the  rebel  leaders  in  1837. 
It  has  an  area  of  304  acres.  Our  space  forbids  further  notice  of 
these  islands. 

The  River  below  the  Falls. 

Just  below  the  Falls  the  river  narrows  abruptly,  and  flows 
rapidly  through  a  deep  gorge,  varying  from  200  to  400  yards  wide, 
and  from  200  to  300  feet  deep.  This  gorge,  or  chasm,  extends 
from  the  Falls  to  Queenstown,  a  distance  of  seven  miles;  in  tbf 


—     3ii     — 

course  of  which  the  river  descends  100  feet,  and  then  emerges 
on  the  low,  level  land  lying  between  Qiieenstown  and  Lake  Ontario 
—  a  further  distance  of  seven  miles.  The  descent  here  is  only 
about  four  feet  altogether,  and  the  flow  of  the  river  is  placid. 
The  chasm  is  winding  in  form,  and  about  the  centre  of  its  course, 
makes  a  turn  nearly  at  right  angles,  forming  the  well-known 
Whirlpool  *■ 

/      Geology  of  Niagara. 

The  geological  features  of  the  district  around  Niagara  are 
very  remarkable,  and  the  Falls  afford  a  fine  example  of  the  power 
of  water  to  form  an  excavation  of  great  depth  and  considerable 
length  in  the  solid  rock.  The  country  over  which  the  river  flows 
is  a  flat  table-land,  elevated  about  a'.iO  feet  above  Lake  Ontario. 
Lake  Erie,  situated  in  a  depression  of  this  platform,  is  about  36 
miles  distant  from  Ontario,  lying  to  the  south-west.  This  table- 
land extends  towards  Queenston,  where  it  terminates  suddenly  in 
an  abrupt  line  of  cliff,  or  e.«carpment,  facing  towards  the  north. 
The  land  then  continues  on  a  lower  level  to  Lake  Ontario 

Such  are  the  various  appearances  and  peculiarities  presented 
by  the  River  and  Falls  of  Niagara,  the  causes  of  which  we  shall 
endeavour  to  explain.  "^ 

The  escarpment  at  Queenston,  and  the  sides  of  the  great  ravine, 
have  enabled  us  in  the  most  satisfactory  manner  to  ascertain  the 
geological  formations  of  the  district,  and  to  account  for  the  present 
position  of  the  Falls,  as  well  as  to  form,  on  good  grounds,  an 
opinion  as  to  the  probable  working  of  this  mighty  cataract  in  the 
future.  It  has  long  been  supposed  that  the  Falls  originally  plunged 
over  the  cliff  at  Queenston,  and  that  they  have  gradually  eaten 
their  way  back,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  to  their  present  position. 
It  is  further  conjectured  that  they  will  continue  to  cut  their  way 
back,  in  the  course  of  ages,  to  Lake  Erie,  and  that  an  extensive 
inundation  will  be  caused  by  the  waters  of  the  lake  thus  set  free. 
Recent  investigation  has  shown,  however,  that  this  result  is  highly 
improbable,  we  may  almost  say  impossible  ;  that  the  peculiar  quality 
and  position  of  the  strata  over  which  the  river  flows  are  such, 


—    33     — 

that   the  Falls  will  be  diminished  in  height   as  they  recede,   and 
their  recessjon  be  altogether  checked  at  a  certain  point. 

It  has  been  ascertained  beyond  all  doubt  that  the  Falls  do 
recede  ;  but  the  rate  of  this  retrograde  movement  is  very  uncer- 
tain; and,  indeed,  we  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  rate 
of  recession  must  of  necessity  in  time  past  have  been  irregular. 
The  cause  of  this  irregularity  becomes  apparent  on  considenng  the 
formations  presented  to  view  at  the  escarpment  and  in  the  chasm. 
Here  we  find  that  the  strata  are  nearly  liorizontal,  as  indeed  they 
are  throughout  the  whole  region,  having  a  very  slight  dip  towards 
the  south  of  twenty-five  feet  in  a  mile.  They  all  consist  of 
different  membres  ot  the  Silurian  series,  and  vary  considerably  in 
thickness  and  density.  In  consequence  of  the  slight  dip  in  the 
strata  above  i-elerred  to,  the  different  groups  of  rock  crop  out 
from  beneath  each  other,  and  thus  appear  on  the  surface  in 
parallel  zones  or  belts;  and  the  Falls,  in  their  retrograde  move- 
ment, after  cutting  through  one  of  these  zones,  would  meet  with 
another  of  a  totally  different  character;  having  cut  through  which, 
a  third  would  succeed,  and  so  on. 

In  all  probability  Niagara  originally  flowed  through  a  shallow 
Talley,  similar  to  the  above  the  Falls,  all  the  way  across  the 
table-land  to  the  Queenston  Heights  or  escarpment.  On  this  point 
Sir  C.  Lyell  writes:  *'I  obtained  geological  evidence  of  the  former 
existence  of  an  old  river-bed,  wich,  I  have  no  doubt,  indicates  the 
original  channel  through  which  the  waters  once  flowed  from  the 
Falls  to  Queenston,  at  the  height  of  nearly  300  feet  above  the 
bottom  of  the  present  gorge.  The  geological  monuments  alluded 
to  consist  of  patches  of  sand  and  gravel  forty  feet  thick,  containing 
fiuviatile  shells  of  the  genera  Unio,  Cyclas,  Melania,  &c.,  such  as 
now  inhabit  the  waters  of  the  Niagara  above  the  Falls.  The  identity 
of  these  fossil  species  with  the  recent  is  unquestionable,  and  these 
fresh-water  deposits  occur  at  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  bounding  the 
ravine,  so  that  they  prove  the  former  extension  of  an  elevated 
shallow  valley,  four  miles  below  the  Falls  —  a  distinct  prolongation 
of  that  now  occupied  by  the  Niagara  in  the  elevated  region  between 
Lake  Erie  and  the  Falls.'* 


'1 


—    34    — 

At  the  escarpment  the  cataract  thundered  over  a  precipl«,« 
twice  the  height  of  the  present  one,  to  the  lower  level.  This 
lower  level,  as  shown  by  Hall  s  Report  on  the  Geology  of  New 
York,  is  composed  of  red  shaly  sandstone  and  marl. 

The  formatiors  incumbent  upon  this,  exhibited  on  the  face 
of  the  escarpment,  are  as  follows;  1.  Gray  quartzose  sandstone; 
2.  Red  shaly  sandstone,  similar  to  that  of  the  low  level,  with  bin 
courses  of  sandstone  near  the  top;  3.  Gray  mottled  sandstone; 
i.  A  thin  bed  of  green  shale ;  5.  Compact  gray  limestone ;  6.  A 
thick  stratum  of  soft  argillo-calcareous  shale,  similar  to  that  which 
now  lies  at  the  base  of  the  Falls ;  7.  A  thick  stratum  of  limestone, 
compact  and  geodiferous,  similar  to  the  limestone  rock  which 
forms  the  upper  part  of  the  Falls.  This  is  all  that  we  have  presented 
to  us  in  the  escarpment;  but  we  may  observe,  parenthetically, 
that  if  we  proceed  backwards  towards  Lake  Erie,  we  cross  the 
lone  of  Hmestone,  pnd  at  the  Falls  discover  another  stratum  of 
thin-bedded  limestone  overlapping  it,  in  consequence  of  the  southerly 
dip  before  referred  to.  Further  back  still  we  find  the  Onondaga 
salt  group,  which  extends,  superficially,  almost  to  Lake  Erie,  where 
another  limestone  formation  appears. 

Now,  had  there  been  no  dip  in  the  strata  of  the  tableland 
between  Lake  Erie  and  Queenston,  it  is  probable  that  the  Falls 
would  have  continued  to  recede  regularly,  having  always  the  same 
formations  to  cut  through,  and  the  same  foundation  to  fall  upon 
and  excavate.  But  in  consequence  of  the  gentle  inclination  of  the 
strata  to  the  south,  the  surface  presented  to  the  action  of  the 
Falls  has  continually  varied,  and  the  process  of  recession  has  been 
as  follows: — 

First,  the  river,  rolling  over  the  upper  formation  of  hard 
limestone,  to  the  escarpment,  thundered  down  a  height  about 
double  that  of  the  present  Falls,  «nd  struck  upon  the  red  shaly 
sandstone  of  the  plain  below.  This  being  soft,  was  rapidly  worn 
away  by  the  action  of  the  water  and  spray,  while  the  more  compact 
locks  above,  comparatively  unaffected,  projected  over  the  caldron, 
and  at  length  fell  in  masses  from  time  to  time  as  the  undermining 
process  went  on.    But  as  the  Falls  receded,  the  belt  of  red  sand- 


-    35    - 

stone  was  gradually  crossed,  and  the  gray  quartzose  sandstone 
became  the  foundation  of  the  group,  and  the  recipient  of  Niagara's 
tremendous  blows.  This  rock  is  extremely  hard;  here,  therefore, 
the  retrograde  movement  was  probably  retarded  for  ages;  and 
here,  just  at  the  point  where  the  Falls  intersected  this  thin  stratum 
of  quartzose  sandstone,  the  whirlpool  is  now  situated. 

The  next  formation  on  which  the  Falls  operated  was  the  red 
shaly  sandstone,  similar  to  the  first ;  which,  being  soft,  accelerated 
the  recession.  This  went  on  at  increased  speed  until  the  stratum 
was  cut  through,  and  the  third  formation  was  reached.  Here 
again  an  alteration  in  speed  occurred  as  before.  The  last  that 
has  been  cut  through  is  the  fifth  stratum,  compact  gray  hmestone, 
on  which  the  cataract  now  falls. 

The  formation  now  reached,  and  that  on  which  Niagara  is 
operating  at  the  present  day,  is  the  soft  argillo-calcareous  shale. 
It  extends  from  the  bottom  of  the  precipice  over  which  the  water 
plunges,  to  nearly  half-way  up,  and  is  about  eighty  feet  thick. 
Above  it  lies  the  compact  refractory  limestone,  which  forms  the 
upper  formation  at  this  point.  This  also  is  aoout  eighty  feet  thick; 
and  here  we  see  the  process  of  excavation  progressing  rapidly. 
The  lower  stratum,  being  soft,  is  disintegrated  by  the  violent  action 
of  the  water  and  spray,  aided  in  winter  by  frost ;  and  portions  of 
the  incumbent  rock,  being  thus  left  unsupported,  fall  down  from 
time  to  time.  The  huge  masses  of  undermined  limestone  that  fell 
in  the  years  1818  and  18:^8,  shook  the  country,  it  is  said,  like  an 
earthquake. 

This  process  is  continually  altering  the  appearaiiC?  of  the 
Falls.  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  in  his  geological  treatise  on  tiiis  region, 
says:  "According  to  the  statement  of  our  guide  in  1841  (Samuel 
Hooker),  an  indentation  of  about  forty  feet  has  hem  produced  in 
the  middle  of  the  ledge  of  limestone  at  the  lesser  Fall  since  the 
year  1815,  so  that  it  has  begun  to  assume  the  shape  of  a  crescent; 
while  within  the  same  period  the  ilorse-Shoe  Fall  has  been  altered 
so  as  less  to  deserve  its  name.  Goat  Island  has  lost  several  acres 
in  area  in  the  last  four  years ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  this 
waste  neither  is,  nor  has  been,    a  mere  temporary  accident,  since 


—     36    — 

;'  '•  •     '.'  .V.    \  ■■■:'■•,    '-'  ■ 

'-f.       •      ,  ..•       ■!  ■'/'■■',•. 

I  found  that  the  same  recession  was  in  progress  in  various  other 
waterfalls  which  I  visited  with  Mr.  Hall  in  the  State  of  New  York." 

The  rate  at  which  the  Falls  now  recede  is  a  point  of  dispute. 
Mr.  Bakewell  calculated  that,  in  the  forty  years  preceding  1830, 
Niagara  had  been  going  back  at  the  rate  of  about  a  yard  annually. 
Sir  Charles  Lyell,  on  the  other  hand,  is  of  opinion  that  one  foot 
per  annum  is  a  much  more  probable  conjecture.  As  we  have 
already  explained,  this  rapid  rate  of  recession  has,  in  all  likelihood, 
not  been  uniform,  but  that  in  many  parts  of  its  course  Niagara 
has  remained  almost  stationary  for  ages. 

That  the  Falls  will  ever  reach  Lake  Erie,  is  rendered  extremely 
improbable   from   the  following   facts :  Owing  to  the  formation  of 
the   land,  they  are   gradually   losing  in  height,  and  therefore  in 
power,  as  they  retreat.    Moreover,   we  Irnow  that,  in  consequence 
of  the  southerly  dip  of  the  strata,  they  will  have  cut  through  the 
bed  of  soft  shale  after  travelling  two  miles  further  back ;  thus  the 
massive  limestone  which  is  now  at   the   top  will  then  be  at  the 
Itottom  of  the  precipice,    while,  at  the   same   time,   the  Falls  will 
be  only  half  their  present  height.  This  latter  hypothesis  has  been 
advanced  by  Mr.  Hall,  who,  in  his  survey,  has  demonstrated  that 
there  is  a  diminution  of  forty  feet  in  the  perpendicular  height  of    ' 
the  Falls   for  every  mile    that   they   recede    southward:  and  this 
conclusion  is  based  upon  two  facts  —  namely,   that   the  slope  of  ■■'. 
the  river-channel,   in   its  course  north-  ward,  is   fifteen  feet  in   a  ' 
mile ,   and  that  the  dip  of  the  strata  in  an   opposite  or  southerly  ■;; 
direction   is   about  twenty-five   feet  in  a  mile.  -•  ;; 

From  this  it  seems  probable  that,  in  the  coarse  of  between 
ten  and  eleven  thousand  years,  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  having  the 
thick  and  hard  limestone  at  their  base,  and  havmg  diminished  to 
half  their  present  height,  will  be  efifectually  retarded  in  their  retro- 
grade progress,  if  not  previously  checked  by  the  fall  of  large 
masses  of  the  rock  from  the  clifi'  above.  Should  they  still  recede, 
however,  bevond  this  point,  in  the  course  of  future  ages  they  will 
have  to  in  jrsect  entirely  different  strata  from  that  over  which 
they  now  tall,  and  will  so  diminished  in  height  as  to  be  almost 
lost  before  reaching  Lake  Erie.  '      ;: 


-    37    — 

The  question  as  to  the  origin  of  the  Falls  —  the  manner  in 
which  they  commenced,  and  the  geological  period  at  which  they 
first  came  into  existence  —  is  one  of  great  interest ;  but  want  of 
space  forbids  our  discussing  that  question  here.  We  can  make 
but  one  or   two  brief  remarks  in  regard  to  it. 

Sir  Charles  Lyell  is  of  opinion  that  originally  the  whole 
country  was  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  at  a  very  remote 
geological  period;  that  it  emerged  slowly  from  the  sea,  and  was 
again  submerged  at  a  comparatively  modern  period,  when  shells 
then  inhabiting  the  ocean  belonged  almost  witiiout  exception 
to  species  still  living  in  high  northern  latitudes,  and  some  of  them 
in  temperate  latitudes.  The  next  great  change  was  the  slow  and 
gradual  re-emergence  of  this  country. 

As  soon  as  the  table-land  between  Laken  En  and  Ontario 
emerged,  the  river  Niagara  came  into  existence;  and  at  the  same 
moment  there  was  a  cascade  of  moderate  height  at  Queenston, 
which  fell  directly  into  the  sea.  The  cataract  then  commenced  its 
retrograde  movement.  As  tbe  land  slowly  emerged,  and  the  hard 
beds  were  exposed,  another  Fall  would  be  formed ;  and  then  pro- 
bably a  third,  when  the  quartzose  sandstone  appeared.  The  re- 
cession of  the  uppermost  Fall  must  have  been  retarded  by  the 
thick  limestone  bed  through  which  it  had  to  cut, :  the  second  Fall, 
not  being  exposed  to  the  same  hindrance,  overtook  it;  and  thus 
the  three  ultimately  came  to  be  joined  in  one. 

The  successive  ages  that  must  have  rolled  on  during  the 
evolution  of  these  events  are  beyond  the  power  of  the  human 
intellect  to  appreciate,  and  belong  to  those  *'deep  things"  of  the 
great  Creator,  whose  ways  are  infinitely  above  our  finite  compre- 
hension. It  is  roughly  calculated  that  the  Falls  must  have  taken 
at  least  35,000  years  to  cut  their  way  from  the  escarpment  of 
Queenston  to  their  present  position;  yet  this  period,  great  though 
it  is  in  comparison  with  the  years  to  which  the  annals  of  the 
human  race  are  limited,  is  as  nothing  when  compared  with  the 
previous  ages  whose  extent  is  ir.dicated  by  the  geological  for- 
mations in  the  region  around  Niagara. 


-    38    — 


The  first  white  visitor. 


The  first  white  man  who  saw  the  Falls,  as  far  as  we  have 
any  authentic  record  ,  was  Father  Hennepin,  a  Jesuit  missionary, 
sent  out  by  the  French  among  the  Indians,  as  early  as  1678,  over 
200  years  ago.  His  deccriptions  were  visionary  and  greatly  exag- 
gerated. He  described  the  Falls  to  be  six  or  seven  hundreu  feet 
high,  and  that  four  persons  could  walk  abreast  under  the  sheet 
of  water  without  any  other  inconveniencii  than  ^  slight  sprinkUng 
from  the  spray.  Wc  will  not  attribute  this  wild  and  fanciful  des- 
cription to  a  want  of  candor,  or  intention  to  deceive.  The  fact 
probably  was,  he  had  no  means  of  measuring  its  height,  and  un- 
doubtedly got  his  account  from  the  Indians,  which  very  likely 
would  be  incorrect. 

A  Daring  feat. 

In  1879,  a  man  named  Peer  made  his  appearance,  and  an- 
nounced that  he  would  jump  from  the  New  Suspension  Bridge 
into  the  river.  When  he  told  what  he  intended  to  do,  the  people 
naturally  considered  him  a  lunatic,  but  on  the  21  st  May  he  did 
make  this,  the  "greatest  of  all  leaps**.  He  had  a  mechanical 
contrivance  to  keep  him  from  turning  in  the  descent;  it  is  fair  to 
say,  that  it  did  not  break  the  fall.  He  put  a  board  out  from  the 
bridge  and  stood  looking  at  the  multitude  who  had  been  attracted 
to  the  place  with  the  expectation  of  seeing  him  jump  and  get 
killed.  However,  he  performed  this  wonderful  feat,  and  received 
only  a  few  slight  bruises.  He  stepped  off  the  board ;  went  down 
feet  foremost  190  feet  into  the  river,  striking  the  water  with  a 
report  like  a  gun.  Time  of  descent  four  seconds.  He  proposed  to 
repeat  this  feat  on  the  fourth  of  July,  but  the  inducements  not 
being  sufficient,  and  being  somewhat  afraid,  he  abondoned  the 
foolhardy  undertaking.  ^^ 

Capt.  Webb's  Fatal  Swim. 

Capt.   Matthew    Webb,     the  famous  English  swimmer,   made 
the  attempt  to  swim  through  the  Rapids  and  Whirlpool  of  Niagara 


—     39    ~ 

River  on  the  afternoon  of  July  24th,  1883,  and  lost  his  life  in  the 
effort.  As  he  had  publicly  announced  he  would  do,  Capt.  Webb 
left  the  Clifton  House  on  the  Canada  side,  at  4  o'clock.  New  York 
time,  and  proceeded  down  the  bank  to  the  Ferry  landing.  Here 
he  stepped  into  a  small  boat  manned  by  J.  McGloy,  ferryman,  and 
was  rowed  down  the  river  to  opposite  the  old  Pleasure  Grounds, 
just  above  the  Maid  of  the  Mist  landing,  when  at  4.25  he  jumped 
from  the  boat  into  the  river  and  swam  leisurely  down  to  the 
Rapids  which  were  to  engulf  him.  At  4.33  he  passed  under  the 
Railway  Suspension  Bridge  into  the  Rapids.  At  4.35  he  reached 
the  last  of  the  Rapids  before  entering  the  mouth  of  the 
Whirlpool.  Here  he  was  seen  to  sink  below  the  crest  of  the 
Rapids  and  he  never  appeared  on  the  top  of  the  water  again. 
Some  of  the  spectators  think  that  they  saw  his  body  near  the  top 
of  the  water  50  or  100  feet  below  the  spot  where  he  disappeared 
from  the  surface,  but  all  agree  that  he  never  again  came  to  the 
lop  of  the  water.  When  he  pissed  under  the  Suspension  Bridge 
he  seemed  to  have  perfect  control  of  himself  and  this  all  accounts 
agree  he  maintained  until  he  reached  the  height  of  the  Rapids 
opposite  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  Elevators.  At  this  point  accounts 
differ  as  to  his  appearance.  Some  sav  that  Le  maintained  his 
equipoise  through  that  terrible  channel,  while  others  say  that  he 
appeared  like  a  drowning  man,  sport  of  the  waves.  But  certain 
it  is  that  after  passing  the  fiercest  of  these  Rapids  he  momentarily 
regained  control  of  himself,  for  the  spectators  on  the  Whirlpool 
Grounds  on  both  sides  of  the  river  saw  him  as  he  emerged  into 
the  comparatively  still  waters  that  intervene  before  the  Whirlpool 
is  reached,  rise  upon  the  surface  and  throw  at  least  a  third  of 
his  body  above  the  angry  waters.  Then  he  seemed  to  swim  on 
top  of  the  water  for  a  hundred  feet,  when  he  disappeared  forever. 
The  spectators  who  saw  him  disappear  waited  a  lew  seconds  to 
see  him  reappear  on  the  crest  of  the  current,  but  they  watched 
in  vain.  Then  all  rushed  to  the  water's  edge  in  the  hope  he 
might  have  passed  safely  through  the  great  maelstrom  and  have 
landed  somewhere  on  the  bank.  The  banks  were  thoroughly 
searched,  but  no  trace  of  him  was  discovered,  and  a  belief  began 


.\j 


—     40     — 

to  grow  that  he  would  never  be  seen  alive.  The  only  hope  left 
was  that  he  might  have  passed  unseen  into  the  lower  rapids  and 
going  through  them  had  leil  the  river  at  Lewiston  or  Queenston, 
but  as  the  hours  passed  this  hope  was  dissipated  and  the  fact 
was  made  known  that  the  brave  and  intrepid  Webb  had  met  more 
than  his  match  in  Niagara's  mad  waters.  v ,.'  \ 

Finding  of  the  Body. 

Nothwithstanding  the  fact  that  Webb's  fatal  swim  was  witnessed 
by  a  large  number  of  people,  much  doubt  was  expressed  as  to 
whether  he  had  actually  made  the  attempt,  or  if  he  had,  that  he 
might  have  left  the  river  alive  at  some  point  beyond  the  observation 
of  the  spectators.  All  uncertainty  on  these  points  were,  however, 
removed  by  the  finding  of  Gapt.  Weeb's  body  about  noon  on 
Saturday,  July  28th.  1883,  a  little  more  than  four  days  after  his 
disappearance. 

The  body  was  found  by  Richard  W.  Turner,  of  Youngstown, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  below,  Lewiston,  floating  in  Niagara  river, 
about  noon  on  Saturday.  He  tied  the  body  to  the  shore  and 
rowed  over  to  Lewiston  for  help,  and  the  corpse  was  finally  towed^ 
to  a  boat  house -there.  .An  this  took  consid«?rdble  time  and  the 
body  was  not  fully  identified  till  about  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
when  it  was  recognized  by  Ft-ix  Nassioy,  clerk  of  the  New  York 
Central  House,  and  Charles  Wiedenman,  of  Suspension  Bridge, 
who  were  the  last  persons  to  speak  to  Captain  Webb  before  he 
entered  the  Rapids,  hailing  him  from  a  small  boat  in  which  they 
were  crossing  the  river.  The  bodies  of  the  two  Indians  who  were 
drowned  the  day  before  Captain  Webb  made  the  attempt,  were 
also  recovered  during  the  day,  and  this  gave  rise  to  some  confusion 
at  first  but  the   investigation  which  followed   removed  all  doubt. 

Capt.  Webb's  Brief  History. 

Capt.  Matthew  Webb  was  a  native  of  England  and  35  yean 
of  age.  His  father  lives  in  Shropshire  England,  and  there  were 
13  children  in  the  family,  eight  being  boys.  He  .learned  to  swim 
when   eight  years  old,   being  encouraged   in  his  venkires  by  his 


•-,    -'  '  •      -     41     —      ■ 

.   ■        .   r<      ■  ■       , 

"V  ,,  .         .  , 

father.  While  yet  a  mere  youth  he  ran  away  to  sea,  and  during 
his  career  before  the  mast  became  famous  for  his  swimming  feats, 
several  of  which  were  performed  in  saving  human  life.  In  1872, 
while  in  South  Africa,  he  won  his  first  laurels  as  a  public  swimmer, 
and  in  the  year  following  received  a  purse  of  ^  500  from  the 
passengers  of  the  steamer  Russia  and  a  medal  from  the  humane 
'society  of  London  for  saving  the  life  of  a  sailor  who  was  washed 
overboard.  The  achievement  that  gave  him  international  fame 
was  swimmiug  the  English  chanuel  naked  and  without  aid  of  any 
kind,  on  which  occasion  he  was  in  the  water  from  1  p.  m.  to  11 
a.  m.  the  next  day.  When  he  was  dragged  out  of  the  water  at 
the  close  of  this  exploit  he  was  presented  with  $  25,000  by  the 
Prince  of  Wales.  On  one  occasion  he  swam  from  Sandy  Hook  to 
Manhattan  Beach  during  a  storm  that  drove  vessels  into  the  harbor. 
In  July,  1882,  he  beat  Wade  at  Coney  Island  for  the  American 
championship  and  at  different  times  has  performed  wonderful  feats 
in  the  water,  of  which  no  record  has  been  made.  Recently  he 
has  made  his  home  in  Boston,  where  his  wile,  also  of  English 
birth -and  but  a  few  years  resident  in  America,  .*and  two  children 
mourn  the  loss  of  his  untimely  death.  Never  were  physical  prowess 
and  courage  worse  applied  than  in  the  brave  fellow's  last  adventure, 
which,  even  if  successful,  would  have  been  of  no  pratical  service 
to  the  world. 


The  Hotels. 

The  hotels  are  excellent,  well  kept,  and  compare  favorably 
with  the  hotels  of  any  other  locality  in  America.  Considering  the 
elegance  of  the  accommodations,  the  quality  and  sumptuousness 
of  the  fare  provided,  the  charges  are  very  moderate. 

The  chief  of  them  are  International  Hotel,  Cataract-House, 
Spencer  House,  Prospect  House  and  Hotel  Kaltenbach,  on  the 
American  side,  and  on  the  Canada  side  Clifton  House.  .> 


:      ■'-  '       -.■■■.'■.■  —       42       —        ■     '-      ,:.  >  .'  f 

■■'.--,  ''■.'.)■ 

■  ■     ■       ''\  _  :  •'  ":. 

TJie  International.  ;         z*    . 

This  magnificent  hotel  is  situated  on  the  corner  of  Main  and 

Falls  Streets,   and   has  a  frontage  of  650   feet.     Its   appointments 

are  first  class  in  every   respect,   with    accommodations   for   about 

^,      500   guests.    Under    the    present    management    its    popularity    is 

:•      greater   than   ever.     The    proprietors,    Messrs.    Cluck,    Ware    and 

i      Delano,  are  thorough  businessmen,  and  know  how  to  keep  a  first 

class  hotel, 

'■'■■  ■       '  ^  '■'"••>    ■ 

Cataract  House.  '     • 

,t '  '  ■ 

?  This  splendid  hotel  is  situated  on  Main  Street,  and  is  too  well 

^■,     known  to  need  much  comment.    It  has  accommodations  for  about 

'     500  guests  and  has  all  the  modern  improvements.  Messrs.  Whitney, 

' '     Jerauld  &  Co,.,  are  yete^-an  hotel  kt^egers?  and- know  how  to  anticipate 

i'he  repuirements  of  their  guests.  '-•If' 

'f._  "  Spencer  House.  ,     i.  '■^'U. 

ii'  This  attractive  Hotel  is  situated  directly  opposite  the  N.  Y.  C.     '"'• 

;]^  depot,  and  although  not  so  large  as  the  International  or  Cataract, 

|-  it    shares    with    them   the   best   public    patronage.     Unlike  them, 

t'  however,  it  is  open  tho  year  round.     Its   central    location,  and  its 

•-  •  convenient  situc.fion  with  reference  to  the  depot,  combine  to  make 

.  it  equally  agreeable   to  the  tourist  or  man  of  business.    The  pro- 

;  prietor,  A.  Cluck,  has  won  a  wide  reputation.  y  ,  ;^  yr 

'-^  .  '  '  -^  V-,'    i'  ■ 

Hotel  Kaltenbach.  '  •"■ 

This  fine,  new  hotel  is  nicely  situated  on  Buffalo  street,  facing   ^y* 
, '    the  rapids ;   and  has  already   a    wide    reputation   in  the  hands  of 
^.     Mr.  Kaltenbach,  whose  natural  qualifications,   together   with  years       , 
■      of  experience,  make  him  one  of  the  best  landlords  in  the  village.     " 

This  iiotel  is  a  great  favorite  with  the  German  tourist,  and  is  also 
^^;  open  the  year  round.  ;'   '    ,  ; ; 


.^  -  -     43     - 

■^     '•■•;:■.'•■•;  ^■\''''  Clifton  House.  '■■■■•';■ 

This  commodious  hotel  is  situated  near  the  hanks  of  the  river 

>    on  the  Canada  side!  its  haiconies  command  a  fine  view  of  all  the 

Falls ;  it  has  accommodations  for  about  300  guests.  The  propriotors 

Mr.  Golburn    have   made  it  a  model   for   luxury,    neatness,    order, 

,  and  thorough  good  Management.     Open  only  during    the  summer 

months. 

;^.,,,    .  Prosjpect  House 

^  is  situated  on  Union  St.,  it  is  new,  and  elegant  in  all  its  appoint- 
ments.    This  house  is  open  the  year  round    D.  Isaacs,   Proprietor. 
There    are   many   other   good   hotels    on    the  American  side, 
'■  namely:  Niagara  House,  Falls  Hotel,  Western  Hotel,  &c.  &c. 

iJ'^'Xry-  Carriages  and  Hackmen.  '    •  > 

'.  r  '  Carriages  are  not  scarce,  or  difficult  to  find;  they  can  be  had 
5  at  all  the  hotels,  public  hack-stands,  and  almost  at  every  turn, 
'  ;  The  rates  of  fare  are   placed  in   every   carriage   in   a  conspicuous 

".  place.  When  engaged  by  the  hour,  the  price  is,  $  1.50  per  hour. 
, '^  liVhen  engaged  for  a  number  of  hours,  lower  rates  generally  prevail. 


5^    ;,'  The  Hackmen 

'■■','/'",-■'> 

f-         These  innocent,  and  much  abused   individuals    are   noted   for 

V  their  perseverance,  the  zeal  they  manifest  in  their  business,    their 

importuning  propensities,  and  their  ignorance  of   the   meaning   of 

that  little  word,  "No".  Nothwithstandig  this,  they  can  be  depended 

on  to  fulfil  any  contract  they  make,   and    are   generally  accommo- 

;,:  dating   and   honorable   in    their    dealing.     In   most    cases,    where 

J  X  complaints  of  extortion  have   been   made  against  these   hackmen 


_     44     — 

the  fault  lias  been  with  the  person  making  the  complaint.  In 
many  cases,  they  expect  to  deduct  from  the  cariage  fare,  the 
amount  paid  for  admission  fees  at  the  various  points.  Visitors 
should  make  a  bargain  with  the  hackmen  before  entering  the 
vehicle  —  in  accordance  with  his  rates  of  fare  —  and  request  no 
gratuitous  "extras"  at  his  hands,  and  there  will  be  no  cause  for 
complaint. 


Distances. 

Fro7n  Principal  Hotels, 


Around  Goat  Island   ,     . 
»       Prospect  Park    . 
To  New  Suspension  Bridi?e     . 
(    »   Railway  Suspension  Bridge 
f  »    Whirlpool  Rapids 
'.   »   Whirlpool  .... 

V  »   Devil's  Hole       .... 
I;  >   Top  of  Mountain 
',  »    Indian  Village  (Council  House) 

»    Table  Rock,  via  New  Suspension  Bridge,    or 

»       »  »         »    Railway  Suspension  Bridge 

>   Lundy's  Lane  Battle  Ground    . 

»   Brocks's  Monument,  Queenstown  Heights 


Ferry 


IM  miles 

H 

2 

2K 

3 

3J^ 

8 


2 
7 


» 
» 
> 
» 
» 

» 


Admission  Fees  and  Tolls. 


To  Goat  Island 

>'    Prospect  Parks  .... 

»   Cave  of  Winds  (with  guide  and  dress) 
>   Inclined  Railway  (Prospect  Park) 

J  »   Ferry  to  Canada  and  return     . 


Free 

■  » 

one  dollar 
10  cents 
50     » 


iv"'/' 


-N 


—    45     — 

■  ■''"'.'  '  .'.      ■ '  *■  , 

To    Behind   Horse   shoe   Fall    with    guide    and    dress 

Canada  side 50  cents 

»   Museum  American  side 50  » 

»    Lundy's  Lane  Battle-ground 50  » 

»    Whirlpool  Raj  ds  (either  side)         ,        .        .        .  50  » 

»   New  Suspension  Bridge,  each  way   .        .        .        ,  25  » 

»      »  »  »     extra  for  two  horse  carriage  50  » 

»   Railway  Suspension  Bridge,  over  and  return  .  l:>5  » 

»  >  >  »  extra  for  two  horse  carriage  50  » 

»   Cyclorama  Bcittle  of  Gettysburg       .        .        .        .  35  > 

The  number  of  victims  whose  carelessness  or  folly  has  sent 
over  the  Falls  is  quite  formidable,  and  doubtless  quite  independent 
of  the  Indian  tradition  that  the  cataract  demands  a  yearly  sacrifice 
of  two  victims,  since  no  such  tradition  can  be  authenticated.  We 
give  below  a  record  of  some  of  the  recent   and   most   memorable. 

^        Accidents,  Suicides  and  narrow  Ecapes. 

Sept.,  1859,  two  men  were  observed  clinging  to  the  bottom 
of  a  boat  about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  they  went  down  on  the 
outside  of  the  Third  Sister  Island,  and  thence  over  the  cataract. 
One  of  the  unfortunate  men  was  named  Johnson,  who  had  some 
years  before  been  rescued  from  a  perilous  position  in  the  Rapids, 
by  Joel  R.  Robinson. 

Sept.,  1859,  a  man  calling  himself  Shields,  proposed  to  jump 
from  a  platform,  90  feet  into  the  river.  Before  making  the  leap, 
he  went  into  the  river  to  ascertain  the  depth,  strength  of  the 
current  etc.,  and  was  never  seen  after! 

May,  1864.  Mrs.  Bender  committed  suicide  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  Falls,  where  she  resided.  She  walked  into  the  rapids 
just  above  the  Horse,  shoe  Fall,  and  was  instantly  swept  over; 
her  body  war  never  found.  She  had  been  insane  for  many  years. 

Oct.,  1865,  a  young  man  named  William  Duncan  undertook 
to  row  across   the   river  to  Chippewa   but    went   over  the  Falls. 


—    46    — 

i 

Parts  of  his  body  were  found  a  few  days  after  near  the  Ferry 
below  the  Falls. 

Sep.,  1866,  two  men,  named  Daniel  Coffa  and  Henry  Husted, 
started  *o  row  from  Chippewa  to  the  American  side,  they  got  into 
the  Rapids  and  went  over  the  Falls.     Bodies  not  found. 

Sep.,  1869,  a  gentleman  calling  himself  Carl  Schurz,  went  to 
the  Horse  shoe  Fall,  (Canada  side)  walked  into  the  Rapids,  and 
was  instantly  swept  over.  His  body  was  found  a  few  days  after 
at  the  Ferry. 

While  this  body  was  anchored  at  the  Jerry,  (Canada  side) 
another  terrible  accident  happened.  A  party  from  Providence,  R.  I., 
consisting  of  Mr.  Tillinghast  and  wife ,  Mrs  Fisher,  Miss  Smith 
and  Miss  Balou  were  in  a  carriage  going  down  the  hill  leading  to 
the  ferry  landing,  intending  to  cross  in  the  ferry  boat  to  the 
American  side  when  part  of  the  harness  gave  way  which  caused 
the  horses  to  jump  and  throw  the  carriage  down  the  precipice. 
Mr.  Tillinghast  and  the  driver  sprang  from  the  carriage  in  time 
to  save  themselves,  but  the  ladies  were  carried  over,  and  fell  a 
distance  of  forty  or  fifty  feet.  Miss  Smith  was  found  to  have  been 
killed  instantly  by  a  blow  on  the  head.  Mrs.  Tillinghast  was 
bruised  about  th^  head  and  otherwise  injured.  Mrs  Fisher  had 
one  wrist  fractu  J  and  suffered  contusions  in  various  parts  of  the 
body.  Miss  Ballou  was  taken  up  for  dead,  but  finally  recovered 
consciousness  she  had  three  ribs  broken,  three  breaks  and  one 
compound  fracture  of  the  right  arm,  cut  and  bruised  about  the 
head,  and  spine  injured.  She  is  still  living  but  is  a  sufferer  from 
the  effects  of  the  fall  Dec,  1869,  Mr.  James  Pierce,  an  old  resident 
to  Niagara-Falls,  committed  suicide  by  jumping  ofif  the  Railway 
Suspension  Bridge.     His  body  was  never  found. 

Nov.,  1870,  Mrs.  Margaret  Avery,  a  resident  of  Chicago, 
committed  suicide  by  jumping  off  Goat  Island  Bridge  into  the 
Rapids,  and  was  almost  immediately  whirled  over  the  American 
Fall,  it  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  the  unfortunate  lady  was 
insane.    Body  not  found. 

May,  1871,  Three  young  men  whose  names  were  not  known, 
attempted   to  cross  the  river  above  the  Falls;   not  being  familiar 

^       ■  -  ■        •;,  —■-:.■    ;    .;.     ■    "■     '■  .,^•■■7   ' 


-     47     — 

•  ''■','      '>,■'■'  If, 

*vith  the  currents,   they  were  soon  drawn  in  the  rapids,   and  over 
the  Horse  shoe  Fall.    None  of  the  hodies  recovered. 

July,  1872,  Two  men,  names  unknown,  in  crossing  ahove  the 
Falls,  were  drawn  into  the  current  and  went  over. 

July,  1863,  a  young  man  accompanied  hy  a  young  lady  and 
boy  hired  a  boat  and  started  for  a  sail ;  they  were  soon  in  the 
rapids  and  over  the  cataract.  The  remains  of  the  young  lady 
were  found  two  days  afterward,  at  Youngstown.  There  was  a 
romantic  as  well  as  a  tragic  feature  in  the  above.  It  appeared  that 
the  young  man  and  young  lady  had  run  away  for  the  purpose  of 
gelting  married ;  the  latter  insisting,  as  a  matter  of  prudence,  that 
her  brother  should  be  of  the  party.  The  marriage  was  to  have 
taken  place  on  the  day  of  the  catastrophe.  The  father  and  the 
mother  of  the  irl,  who  had  come  in  pursuit  of  the  runaway, 
arrived  but  a  short  time  after ! 

Sept.,  1874,  a  stranger  reached  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side, 
was  driven  to  Table  Rock,  and  after  viewing  the  Falls  for  a  time, 
he  asked  the  carriage  driver  if  he  thought  "it  would  kill  a  man 
to  go  over".  The  driver  assured  him  it  would  be  certain  death. 
Requesting  him  to  mail  a  letter  for  him,  and  without  saying  any- 
thing more,  walked  into  the  water,  and  in  a  moment  was  carried 
over  the  Falls.  His  body  was  never  found,  nor  did  his  name  after- 
wards become  known. 

August,  1875.  A  sad  fate  befell  two  estimable  young  people, 
cfsidenta  of  the  village  of  the  Falls.  Miss  Lottie  Philpott,  with 
two  brothers,  a  sister-in-law,  and  Mr.  Ethelbert  Parsons,  went 
through  the  Gave  of  the  Winds,  and  climbed  over  the  rocks  to- 
wards the  American  Fall,  to  bathe  in  the  lighter  currents  that 
€weep  between  and  over  the  massive  rocks  below.  With  a  rash, 
venturesome  spirit.  Miss  Philpott  chose  one  of  the  most  dangerous 
currents  in  which  to  bathe ;  she  soon  lost  her  footing  and  fell, 
Mr.  Parsons  grasped  for  her,  but  failing  to  catch  her,  he  sprang 
into  the  current  and  both  were  carried  down  the  stream.  Despera- 
tely the  brave  man  labored  to  save  her,  but  of  no  avail,  for  the 
current  carried  them  further  from  the  shore.   The  horror-stricken 


—    48    — 

witnesses,  unable  to  render  any  assist  ince  saw,  them  sink  below 
the  surface.  Where  they  disappeared  a  cloud  of  mist  hid  tho  scene 
of  disaster  for  a  moment,  and  when  their  friends  next  looked  for 
their  loved  ones  the  angry  waters  gave  no  sign  of  the  tragedy 
just  enacted.  Both  bodies  were  subsequenlty  recovered  at  the 
Whirlpool. 

July,  1877.  A  fatal  casualty  occurred  on  the  river  above  the 
Falls,  by  which  two  men  lost  their  lives  and  a  third  narrowly 
escaped  meeting  the  same  fate.  Charles  A,  Pierce,  Wallace  Belinger, 
and  William  Flay,  all  residents  of  Niagara  Falls  were  sailing  on 
the  river,  when  their  boat  capsized;  they  all  succeeded  in  getting 
hold  of  the  boat  and  attempted  to  get  it  right  side  up,  but  after 
making  several  futile  endeavors ,  and  becoming  exhausted  by 
repeated  immersions,  they  gave  up  the  attempt.  Pierce  and  Bel- 
linger then  tried  to  swim  for  the  shore,  but  having  on  their 
clothes  they  did  not  go  far  before  they  went  down  to  their  death. 
Flay  managed  to  get  upon  the  keel  of  the  boat,  from  which  he 
was  washed  several  times,  but  managed  to  get  back  again  each 
time  in  safety.  He  was  rescued  from  this  awful  position  in  an 
exhausted  state,  by  three  young  men  named  Walker.  The  body  of 
Bellinger  was  found  on  Grass  Island ;  the  body  of  Pierce  went 
over  the  Fall  and  was  afterward  recovered  in  the  Whirlpool. 

April,  1878.  Two  young  men.  Brothers  and  resi  dents  of 
Chippewa  while  crossing  the  river  above  the  Falls  to  their  home, 
got  into  the  rapids  and  were  carried  over  the  Falls.  The  bodies 
were  after  wards  recovered. 

May,  1879.  A  well  known  citizen  of  Niagara  Falls,  named 
Pipus  Walker,  rowed  out  into  the  river,  and  was  soon  in  the 
rapids  and  over  the  American  Fall.  He  was  a  good  boat-man  and 
well  acquainted  with  the  river  in  every  respect,  and  had  he  been 
sober  at  the  time,  it  is  likely  this  notice  would  not  have  been 
here.    His  body  was  recovered. 

June,  1879.  A  lady  and  gentleman,  named  Roland,  from 
Belgium,  who  were  on  a  trip  arround  the  world,  visited  Niagara 
Falls,   and  went  over  on  the  Three  Sister  Islands.    Mr.  Roland 


-    49    — 

came  back  alone,  naturally  very  much  excited,  stating  that  hi« 
wile  wliile  stooping  to  get  a  drink  of  water,  accidently  fell  into 
the  rapids  and  had  gone  over  the  Hoise-shoe  Fall.  Suspicions  of 
foul-play  Wore  entertained,  but  there  being  no  proof,  Mr.  Roland 
WHS  allowed  to  go  on  his  way.  Before  leaving  he  left  a  sum  of 
money  to  defray  the  funeral  expenses  in  case  t'  body  should  be 
found.  A  few  days  aftervsards  the  body  was  recovered  near  the 
Falls,  and  conveyed  thence  to  the  burying-ground. 

Sep.,  1880.  A  gentleman  from  Utica,  named  Knapp,  commit- 
ted suicide  under  the  following  circumstance.  He  arrived  at  the 
Falls  in  the  evening,  and  went  to  the  telegraph  office  and  en- 
quired Tor  a  dispatch,  there  not  being  one  for  him,  he  seemert 
very  much  disappointed;  he  then  walked  down  to  the  Rapids  at 
the  end  of  Tugby  Mammoth  Bazaar,  where  he  stepped  upon  a 
bench,  shot  himself  in  the  head,  and  fell  head-long  into  the  rapids; 
in  a  few  seconds  he  was  over  the  American  Fall.  Before  com- 
mitting this  rash  deed,  he  took  off  his  coat  and  vest  and  laid  them 
on  the  walk,  and  attached  a  paper  stating  where  they  were  to  be 
sent.  He  also  left  his  watch  and  chain,  a  small  amount  of  money, 
gold  sleeve  buttons,  knife,  and  several  other  articles.  His  body  . 
was  recovered  soon  after  in  the  Whirlpool. 

Inside  of  five  years,  several  men  have  committed  suicide,  by 
jumping  from  the  New  Suspension  Bridge. 

Jan.,  1883.  Thomas  Hilson  of  Philadelphia  committed  suicide 
by  jumping  into  the  rapids  from  Luna  Island  »Before  the  war  he 
carried  on  a  prosperous  wool  trade,  and  afterwards  formed  a 
partnership  with  Geo.  W.  Bond  &  Co.,  of  Boston,  the  firm's 
name  in  Philadelphia  being  Thomas  Hilson  &  Co.  About  ten 
years  ago  the  firm  became  involved  in  financial  difficulty,  brought 
on,  so  Hilson  claimed,  by  speculative  ventures  of  some  of  the 
junior  partners.  Hil«:on  gathered  together  all  the  money  he  could 
get  hold  or,  amouiiung  to  $  40,000  or  $  50,000,  and  decamped. 
The  senior  member  of  the  firm,  Mr.  Bond,  happened  to  be  in 
Europe  at  the  time,  and  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamship  had  Hilson 
|irre.slod.    Mr.  Bond  succeeded  in  getting  /  28,000  from  the   fugi- 

d 


—    BO    — 

live.  This  money  was  paid  to  the  firm's  creditors,  and  the  affair 
was  thus  settlea.  In  1876  Greprg  Brothers,  who  had  business 
transactions  with  Hilson,  after  his  return  from  Europe  charged 
him  with  the  embezzlement  of  /  6,000,  and  he  was  arrested  while 
on  a  visit  to  Philadelphia  during  the  centennial.  He  was  sub- 
sequently tried,  but  the  jury  disagreed  and  the  matter  was  com- 
promised. Hilson's  friends  are  satisfied  that  he  killed  himself  be- 
cause he  had  deliberately  come  to  the  conclusion  that  he  could 
no  longer  live  in  the  extravagant  manner  in  which  he  delighted, 
and,  rather  than  be  compelled  to  exist  without  »high  living,€  he 
preferred  to  end  his  life.  ,    >- 

>April  9*^  1884.  Two  well  known  citizens  of  Suspension 
Bridge,  Thomas  Vedder  and  Van  R.  Pearson,  started  out  for  a 
ride,  they  not  returning  in  proper  season,  a  search  was  instituted. 
About  two  o'clock  the  next  morning,  the  horse  and  carriage  was 
found  on  Goat-Island,  near  the  stairs  leading  to  Luna-Island  and 
shortly  after  the  dead  body  of  Pearson  was  found  on  Luna-Island, 
with  two  bullet  holes  in  his  head.  Near  by  lay  a  portion  of  the 
clothing  belonging  to  Thomas  Vedder,  but  no  traces  could  be 
found  of  Mr.  Vedder.  On  Thursday  June  b^^  while  the  bridges 
were  being  put  in  the  Gave  of  the  Winds,  some  of  the  workmen 
found  the  body  of  Mr.  Vedder.  There  is  still  some  mystery  about 
the  sad  affair.  What  passed  between  the  two  men  as  they  stood 
together  on  Luna-Island  that  cold  evening,  will  never  be  revealed 
until  the  end  of  time,  when  all  things  are  made  known. 

The  precedmg  is  but  a  partial  lest  of  the  known  victims.  The 
number  of  those  who  have  taken  the  fatal  plunge  at  night,  un- 
seen, can  never  be  ascertained. 

Many  state  that  while  looking  into  the  chasm,  an  almost 
irresistible  impulse  besets  them  to  leap  into  the  fearful  flood. 
We  cannot  explain  this,  and  why  such  a  feeling  should  possess 
the  mind  is  beyond  our  c.  prehension,  though  certain  it  is  that 
such  a  feeling  does  exist  in  the  minds  of  many. 

The  following  narrow  escapes  may  now  be  mentioned.  In 
1839,  a  man  named  Chapin,  who  was  engaged  in  repairing  Goat 
Island  Bridge,  fell  into  the  Rapids,  fortunately  the  current  carried 
him  to  the  first  of  two  small  Islets  below.  He  was  rescued  from 
his  perilous  position  by  J.  H.  Robinson,  who  had  more  than  once 
bravely  rescued  fellow-creatures  from  this  dangerous  river;  and  the 
island  was  named  after  him  —  Chapin  Island. 

In  1852,  a  gentleman  from  Troy,  N.  Y.,  while  passing  over 
Terrapin  Tower  Bridge,  fell  into   the  river,  and  was  instantly 


—    51    - 

carried  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice  and  lodged  between  two 
rocks.  Mr.  Isaac  Davy  assisted  by  a  visitor,  rescued  him,  by 
throwing  lines  to  him  :  he  had  just  sufficient  strength  left  to  fasten 
them  around  his  body;  then  they  drew  him  to  the  bridge  in  an 
exhausted  condition. 

In  1874,  Mr.  Wm.  Mc  Collough,  on  old  resident  of  the  Falli, 
while  engaged  in  painting  the  bridge  leading  to  the  second  Sister 
Island,  accidently  fell  into  the  Rapids.  When  about  a  quarter  of 
the  way  down  to  the  spot  where  be  would  take  the  fatal  plunge, 
the  current  threw  the  nearly  insensible  man  over  a  low  ledge 
into  a  small  eddy,  where  he  managed  to  get  upon  a  projecting 
rock.  He  was  recued  by  Gonroy,  the  well  known  guide,  who 
succeeded  in  getting  to  him  with  a  hne,  by  the  aid  of  which, 
both  were  landed  in  safety. 

V .  In  1875,  an  unknown  man  fell  over  the  bank,  on  the  Canada 
side,  a  few  rods  below  the  New  Suspension  Bridge.  Those  by 
whom  the  accident  was  witnessed,  repaired  to  the  spot  where  he 
fell,  expecting  to  find  his  mangled  remains.  Their  surprise  was 
great  when  they  found  him  unhurt  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
slight  bruises  1  This  seemed  almost  incredible,  when  he  had  fallen 
eighty  feet  perpendicular,  and  then  rolled  down  the  bank  sixty 
feet  further.  It  is,  perhaps  worthy  of  remark,  that  he  was  intoxi- 
cated when  he  fell  over,  but  sober  after. 

Legend  of  the  white  Canoe. 

--■  In  days  of  old,  long  before  the  deep  solitudes  of  the  West  were 
disturbed  by  white  men,  it  was  the  custom  of  the  Indian  warriors 
of  the  forest  to  assemble  at  the  Great  Gataract  and  offer  a  human 
sacrifice  to  the  Spirit  of  the  Falls.  The  offering  consisted  of  a 
white  canoe  full  of  ripe  fruits  and  blooming  flowers ;  which  was 
paddled  over  the  terrible  cliflf  by  the  fairest  girl  of  the  tribe  who 
had  just  arrived  at  the  age  of  womanhood.  It  was  counted  an 
honour  by  the  tribe  to  whose  lot  it  fell  to  make  the  costly  sacri- 
fice; and  even  the  doomed  maiden  deemed  it  a  high  compliment 
to  be  selected  to  guide  the  white  canoe  over  the  Falls.  But  in  the 
stoical  heart  of  the  red  man  u.ere  are  tend<?r  feelings  which 
cannot  be  subdued,  and  cords  which  snap  if  strained  too  roughly, 
The  only  daughter  of  a  chief  of  the  Seneca  Indians  was 
chosen  as  a  sacrificial  offering  to  the  Spirit  of  Niagaia-  Her 
mother  had  been  slain  by  a  hostile  tribe.  Her  father  was  the 
bravest  among  the  warriors,  and  his  stern  brow  seldom  relaxed  save 
to  his  blooming  child,  who  was  now  ihe  only  joy  to  which  he  clung  on 
earth.  When  the  lot  fell  on  his  fair  child,  no  symptom  of  feelingcrossed 


■■>  ^  .     -     52    -     ....■^,.,  .■.,;;,./. 

his  countenance.  In  the  pride  of  Indian  endurance  he  crushed 
down  the  feelings  that  tore  his  bosom,  and  no  tear  trembled  in 
his  dark  eye  as  the  preparations  for  the  sacrifice  went  forward. 
At  length  the  day  arrived ;  it  faded  into  night  as  the  savage 
festivities  and  rejoicing  proceeded;  then  the  moon  arose  and 
silvered  the  cloud  of  mist  that  rose  from  out  the  turmoil  of 
Niagara ;  and  now  the  white  canoe,  laden  with  its  precious  freight, 
glided  from  the  bank  and  swept  out  into  the  dread  rapid  from 
which  escape  is  hopeless.  The  young  girl  calmly  steered  her  tiny 
bark  towards  the  centre  of  the  stream,  while  frantic  yells  and 
shout  arose  from  the  forest.  Suddenly  another  white  canoe  shot 
forth  upon  the  stream,  and,  under  the  powerful  impulse  of  the 
Seneca  chief,  flew  like  an  arrow  to  destruction.  It  overtook  the 
first ;  the  eyes  of  father  and  child  met  in  one  last  gaze  of  love, 
and  then  they  plunged  together  over  the  thundering  cataract 
into  eternity ! 


.  <■!/' 


New  Maid  of  the  Mist  4 

A  new  steamer  ca'^ed  "Maid  of  the  Mist",  has  been  built  below 
the  Falls  to  take  the  pla.  *^  of  her  famous  predecessor  of  the  same 
name.  I  would  advise  au  visitors  to  take  a  trip  on  this  boat 
before  leaving  Niagara.  :i\ 

Fare,  for  the  round  trip,  50  cents.  ;i;^ 

■■     '   '  ■•         ,/  :■■  ■■'^^' 

Father  Hennepin's  Description 

;■  of  the  Falls,  published  in  1678.        ;     \^      r 

Betwixt  the  Lake  Ontario  and  EtHe,  there  is  a  vast  and  pro- 
digious Cadence  of  Water,  which  falls  down  after  a  surprizing  and 
astonishing  manner,  insomuch  that  the  Universe  does  not  afford 
its  Parallel.  «Tis  true,  Italy  and  Suedeland  boast  of  some  such 
Things ;  but  we  may  well  say  they  are  but  sorry  patterns,  when 
compar'd   to  this   of  which  we    now  speak.     At  the  foot  of  this 


—    68    — 

horrible  Precipice,  we  meet  with  the  River  Niagara,  which  is  not 
above  a  quarter  of  a  League  broad,  but  is  wonderfully  deep  in 
some  places.  It  is  so  rapid  above  this  Descent,  that  it  violently 
hurries  down  the  wild  Beasts  while  endeavoring  to  pass  it  to  feed 
on  the  other  side,  they  not  being  able  to  withstand  the  force  of 
its  Current,  wliich  enevitably  casts  them  headlong  above  Six 
hundred  foot  high. 

This  wonderful  Downfall  is  compounded  of  two  cross-streams 
of  Water,  and  two  Falls,  with  an  isle  sloping  along  the  middle 
of  it.  The  Waters  which  fall  from  this  horrible  Precipice,  do 
foam  and  boyl  after  the  most  hideous  manner  imaginable,  making 
an  outrageous  Noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  Thunder;  for 
when  the  Wind  blows  out  of  the  South,  their  dismal  roaring  may 
be  heard  more  than  Fifteen  Leagues  off. 

The  River  Niagara  having  thrown  it  self  down  this  incredible 
Precipice,  continues  its  impetuous  course  for  two  Leagues  together, 
to  the  great  Rock  above-mention'd,  with  an  inexpressible  rapidity: 
But  having  passed  that,  its  impetuosity  relents,  gliding  along  more 
gently  for  other  two  Leagues,  till  it  arrives  at  the  Lake  Ontario^ 
or  Frontenac. 

Any  Bark  or  greater  Vessel  may  pass  from  the  Fort  to  the 
foot  of  this  huge  Rock  above  mention'd.  This  Rock  lies  to  the 
Westward,  and  is  cut  off  from  the  Land  by  the  River  Niagara, 
about  two  Leagues  further  down  than  the  great  Fall,  for  which 
two  Leagues  the  People  are  oblig'd  to  transport  their  goods  over- 
land; but  the  way  is  very  good;  and  the  Trees  are  very  few, 
chiefly  Firs  and  Oaks. 

From  the  great  Fall  unto  this  Rock,  which  is  to  the  West  of 
the  River,  the  two  brinks  of  it  are  so  prodigious  high,  that  it 
would  make  one  tremble  to  look  steadily  upon  the  Water,  rolling 
along  with  a  rapidity  not  to  be  imagin'd.  Were  it  not  for  this 
vast  Cataract,  which  interrupts  Navigation,  they  might  sail  with 
Barks,  or  greater  Vessels,  more  than  Four  hundred  and  fifty 
Leagues,  crossing  the  Lake  of  HuronSy  and  reaching  even  to  the 
farther  end  of  the  Lake  Illinois^  which  two  Lakes  we  may  easily 
say  are  little  Seas  of  fresh  Water.* 

-.  ..  ,  .^  ^C;v  ..:  ■.  .■    ..r---^^.  ■    '    ■      •'■•>/- 

:-/■;:  ;)\>{    ■at:  ■  '    -0;  .  "•'.  s:  ■.    '  '.=;/.'.,•_'•..■  .rv    ,:       ■  '        ;  ',    ,<• '■/'..  . 


I      54    — 

The  village  of  Niagara  Falls.       ^. 

The  village  of  Niagara  Falls  takes   its   name   from   the  Great 

Cataract,  is  situated  on  the  Niagara   River,    about   22    miles   from 

Buffalo,   and  is  accessible    by    rail    from    all   parts    of  the  United 

States  and  Canada.    The  population   is  about   3,900.    During  the 

war  of  1812,  this  locahty  was  the  scene  of  many  startling  events, 

which  have  passed  into  history.     The   climate    is   in    the   highest 

*;  -   degree  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  atmosphere  being  continually 

.;    acted  upon  by  the  rushing  waters,    is   kept  pure,    refreshing,  and 

>  .  salutary,  and  is  blessed  with    that   which   companies   can    neither 

; ,'   purchas  nor  monopolize  —  cool  breezes  from  the  river. 

Besides  being  a  fashionable  place  of  resort,  it  must  eventually 
r     become  a  large  manufacturing  town.    The  vast  water-power,  (pro- 
h-:  bably  the  best  in  the  world)  is  just  beginning   to   attract   the   at- 
':  •  tention  of  capitahsts.  Mills  are  already  built,  others  are  in  the  course 
;•,'"-  of  construction,  and  capitalists  are  now  negotiating  far  other  sites. 
>'    f       There  is  established  an  International   Park  at  this   place,  ac- 
cording to  the  plan  suggested  by  Lord  Dufferin.    The  necessity  of 
;..  action  became  more   urgent  every   year   with   the    growth  of  the 
'■"■if  surrounding  country  and  development  of  manufacturing  enterprises. 
'  :  The  object  of  this  scheme  was  not  to  drive   away  manufacturers, 
:!  but  simply  to  exlur'.e  them  fr'^m   the  immediate   proximity  of  the 
cataract,  while  giving  every  opportunity   for  industrial   expansion 
by  the  use  of  the  unrivalled  waterpower  at  a  point  further  down 
the  river.   This  has  done  away  with  the  high  and  numerous  tolls, 
preservjd  the  natural  beauty   of  the  Falls,    and    created  a  reser- 
vation of  which  both  countries  are  equally  proud. 
v  The   name  "Niagara"   is   a   corruption    of    the    Indian    word 

„Onyakara"  supposed  to  be  of  the  Iroquois  language.  The  meaning 
of  the  term  is  "mighty,  wonderful,  thundering  water. 

____________  .:::'/-v."( 

The  state  of  New- York  has  purchased  Goat  Island  group» 
Prospect  Park,  and  a  strip  of  land  along  the  river  front  about 
5i  of  a  milo  long  and  about  200  feet  v/ide,  and  made  the  Islands 
and  Prospect  Park  free  to  the  world.  .     ,  ^        ;  'vv/ 


r'f- 


—    55    — 


Descriptive  Pieces. 

To  Niagara 

'  written  at  the  first  sights  of  its  Falls. 

Hail!  Sovereign  of  the  world  of  Floods!  whose  majesty  and  might 
First  dazzles,  then  enraptures,  then  o'erawes  the  aching  sight : 
The  pomp  of  Kings  and  Emperors,  in  every  clime  and  zone, 
Grows  dim  beneath  the  splendor  of  thy  glorious  watery  throne. 

No  fleets  can  stop  thy  progress,  no  armies  bid  thee  stay, 
But  onward  —  onward  —  onward  —  thy  march  still  holds  its  way: 
The  rising  mists  rhat  veil  thee  as  thy  heralds  go  before, 
And  the  music  that  proclaims  thee  is  the  thund'ring  cat'ract's  roar ! 

Thy  diadem's  an  emerald,  of  the  clearest,  purest  hue. 
Set  round  with  waves  of  snow  white  foam,  anu  spray  of  feathery  dew; 
While  tresses  of  the  brightest  pearls  float  o'er  thine  ample  sheet, 
And  the  rainbow  lays  its  gorgeous  gems  in  tribute  at  thy  feet. 

Thy  reign  is  from  the  ancient  days,  the  sceptre  from  on  high, 
Thy  birth  was  when  the  distant  stars  first  lit  the  glorius  sky ; 
The  sun,  the  moon,  and  all  the  orbs  that  shine  upon  thee  now. 
Beheld  the  wreath   of  glory  which  first  bound  thine  infant  brow. 

And  from  that  hour  to  this,  in  which  I  gaze  upon  thy  stream. 
From  age  to  age  —  in  winter's  frost  or  summer's  sultry  beam  — 
By  day,  by  night,  without  a  pause,  thy  waves  with  loud  acclaim, 
In  ceaseless  sounds  have  still  proclaimed  the  great  Eternal's  name. 

For  whether,  on  thy  forest-banks,  the  Indian  of  the  wood, 
Or,  since  his  day,  the  red  man's  foe  on  his  fatherland  has  stood; 
Whoe'er  has  seen   thine    incense  rise,  or  heard  thy  torrents  roar, 
Must  have  knelt  before  the  God  of  all  to  worship  and  adore. 


sctiiSM 


—     66     — 

Accp  '  then,  0  Supremely  Great!  0  Infinite!  0  God!  :-  ;   ( 
From  this  primeval  altar,  the  green  and  virgin  sod,  a   , 

The  humble  homage  that  my  soul  in  gratitude  would  pay. 
To  Thee  whose  shield  has  guarded  me  through  all  my  wandering  way. 

For  if  the  ocean  be  as  nought  in  the  hollow  of  Thine  hand, 
And  the  stars  of  the  bright  firuament  in  Thy  balance  grains  of  sand 
If  Niagara's  rolling  flood  seem  great  to  us  who  humbly  bow, 
Oh,  Great  Creator  of  the  Whole,  how  passing  great  art  Thou ! 

But  though  Thy  power  is  far  more  vast  than  finite  mind  can  scan, 
Thy  mercy  is  still  greater  shown  to  weak,  dependent  man: 
For  him  thou  cloth'st  the  fertile  earth  with  herbs,  and  fruit,  and  seed  ; 
For  him  the  seas,  the  lakes,  the  streams,  supply  his  hourly  need. 

Around,  on  high,  or  far,  or  near,  the  universal  whole 
Proclaims  Thy  glory,  as  the  orbs  in  their  fixed  courses  roll; 
And  from  Creation's  grateful  voice  the  hymn  ascends  above,      ,.  i., 
While  Heaven  re-echoes  back  to  Earth  the  chorus  —  "God  is  love!" 

J.S.BUCKINGHAM.       ,     >,.• 

The  Falls  of  Niagara. 

The  thoughts  are  strange  that  crowed  into  my  brain    .^,-: 
While  I  look  upward  to  thee.    It  would  seem  '■  ' 

As  if  God  poured  thee  from  His  "hollow  hand",  I 

And  hung  His  bow  upon  thine  awful  front, 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice  which  seemed  to  him    •;,   ^,?,  { 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Saviour's  sake,  'Vi: 

"The  sound  of  many  waters;"  and  had  bade  V 

Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back,  ,        ■ 

And  notch  the  centuries  in  the  eternal  rocks.    '         V/.  ; 
Deep  calleth  unt"*  deep.    And  what  are  we,  •  V',T 

That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime?        •    ''^'i^ 
Oh!  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung  ;';!t*; 

From  War's  vain  trumpet,  by  thy  thundering  side  ?     '•  V^ 


'&k'4 


r     ,      ,  1    .    .  ,    fil         -^- 


Yea,  what  is  all  the  riot  that  man  makes 
la  his  short  life,  to  Ihy  unceasinj^'  roar? 
And  yet,  hold  bahhler,  what  art  iliou  to  Him 
WIjo  drowned  a  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Ahove  its  loftiest  mountains?  —  a  Mght  wave 
Tliat  breaks  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might ! 


BRAINARD. 


•V. 


Niagara. 


•t  I  '/■ 


Flow  on  for  ever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty.     Yea,  flow  on, 
'/^•''  .',,,      Unfathomed  and  resistless.     God  hath  set. 
'"  '..,      ..  His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
,.''  ■  ^'    '    Mantled  around  thy  feet.     And  He  doth  give 
r    V''        Thy  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
■'[._'    Eternally  —  bidding  the  lip  of  man 

Keep  silence,  and  upon  thine  altar  poUr 
.,        ..  ■     Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 
y^     /  Earth  fears  to  lift 

;-,'),,.    The  insect  trump  that  tells  her  trifling  ^js 
/    .    -    .   Or  fleeting  triumphs,  mid  the  peal  sublime 
/.;'.% (.\-     Of  thy  tremendous  hymn.    Proud  Ocean  shrinks 
;^:  ,  -    >    Back  from  thy  brotherhood,  and  all  his  waves 
J    ''■'  .-.  Retire  abashed.    For  he  hath  need  to  sleep, 
I' '  Sometimes,  hke  a  spent  labourer,  calling  home 

,v ,:   ':  ■       His  boisterous  billows,  from  their  vexing  play, 

To  a  long  dreary  calm :  but  thy  strong  tide         ; 
Faints  not,  nor  e'er  with  falling  hearts  forgets    Vi^ 
Its  everlasting  lesson,  night  nor  day. 
The  morning  stars,  that  hailed  Creation's  birth, 
Heard  thy  hoarse  anthem  mixing  with  their  song 
Jehovah's  name;  and  the  dissolving  fires. 
That  wait  the  mandate  of  the  day  of  doom      -  : ' 
To  wreck  the  Earth,  shall  find  it  deep  inscribed 
Upon  thy  rocky  scroll. 


rv} 


J'; 


-    55   - 


;l 


* '   •     .^      Lol  yon  birds, 
How  bold,  they  venture  near,  dipping  their  wing 
In  all  thy  mist  and  foam.    Perchance  'tis  meet 
For  them  to  touch  tliy  garment's  hem,  or  stir 
Thy  diamond  wreath,  who  sport  upon  the  cloud 
Unblamed,  or  warhle  at  the  gate  of  heaven 
"Without  reproof.    But  as  for  us,  it  seems  1 

Scarce  lawful  with  our  erring  lips  to  talk       .     v  ! 

Famiharly  of  thee.    Methinks,  to  trace 
Thiue  awful  features  with  our  pencil's  point 
Were  but  to  press  on  Sinai. 

Thou  dost  speak 
Alone  of  God,  who  poured  thee  as  a  drop 
From  His  right  hand  —  bidding  the  soul  that  looks 
Upon  thy  fearful  majesty  be  still, 

Be  humbly  wrapped  in  its  own  nothingness,  ^^  v^  J 

And  lose  itself  in  Hinu 

MES.  SIGOURNET.  ^  r 


J. 


We  have  now  done  with  Niagara  and  its  neighborhood,  but     J 
there  is  a  fascination  about  this   mighty  Cataract  which  seems  to     ';; 
chain  us   to  the   spot,   and   when   we    seek  to  leave  it,  draws  us 
irresistibly  back  again :  Even  in  describing  it,  however  inadequately 
the  task  may   be  accomplished,   we  are  loth  to  lay  down  the  pen      : 
and  tear  ourselves  away.    It  is  a  scene  which  poets  and  authors      : 
have   tried  for  years,   but   always   failed  to  tell.    Niagara  is  still,    !  ■ 
and  must  always  be,   unpainted    and  unsung.     It   has    flowed  for"  ], 
thousands   of  years  as  it  thunders  now,    yet   in  its  mighty   rush      ■ 
fresh  beauties    may  be    seen  every  hour,  though  its  waters  nevei 
alter  in  their  bulk  for  summer  suns  or  the  melting  of  Canadian  snov;s 


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